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Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 16:15:50 -0500
From: Tom Young <try0548nopsamedu>
Subject: Re: Removing internal fan control on dash - Saab 900 '86


Graeme Armstrong wrote: > > >My internal fan switch is dodgy and I want to replace it. I got a > >scrap replacement by ripping off the dash, but does anyone know how to > >remove the control without doing irrevocable damage?? > > TIA > > Yeah, the speed control. How do you get in behind it without trashing > the fascia? I can't see any easy way to get ny access. "Without doing irrevocable damage." Dash removal is fun. Replacement is even more so. Put it off as long as possible. Taking the dash off is a good half-day affair, so I would wait until I have some radio wiring to do or something else that I'd like to get at while I have the dash off. Once you get down to it: 1.) Remove the steering wheel. It may seem like a waste of time, but it pays off when you are trying to balance a fascia full of wires and switches while trying not to snap off any brittle plastic parts. 2.) Now is a good time to remove all of the 'push' buttons (AC, Hazards, Main Light rotary). Take out the radio and the four fascia screws. Three are easy to see and one is hidden inside the ashtray area. Keep all of the hollow plastic 'straws' if you still have them. They guide the long screws back into place when you get to putting it all back together. Also note that the screws are not symmetrical, each is numbered 1-4 by little ring marks just beneath the threaded end. {1=|, 2 =||, etc} 3.) Next 'gently' pull the dash out just far enough that you can get your hand up behind to unplug all of the remaining electrical connections such as the power mirrors and unscrew the dash brightness rheostat. I find that it helps to work from left to right when you get to the general area of the fan speed switch you should be able to pull the fascia out far enough that you can get at the phillips screws holding the rotary switch in from behind. Reassembly: 4.)After you have the switch replaced, check to see that necessary stuff is connected and try and mush the spaghetti mess back into the dash from whence it came. The little dash lamps have a tendency to pop out, also check that the heater u-joint is connected at the heater valve (if you have a working valve.) 5.) Once everything is connected, hopefully still working and balanced precariously, put the plastic 'straws' in the guides, and set the dash in with the long screws. Some folks have complained that their dashes squeak over bumps after an operation like this. Thus is life, I always say. Once the screws are tight, they won't effect how tight the dash really fits. Best of luck, Tom Young "the SAABhuman"

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