Date: Mon, 23 Aug 1999 23:26:47 -0700 From: "Brad Schroeter" <scrotumnopsamnet.net> Subject: Re: Strange clutch problem
i had to go through the same shit...It would work after I started going for awhile..I rebuilt the master cylinder and it was all good...But however had problems later becuase the rubber hose that connects to the master and brake fluid resevior was letting air in and leaking...Got the new hose, bleed the system and it was all good..I suggest checking the hose..Also if your brake fluid is nasty it could easily have destroyed the seals in the cylinder in a 1 1/2 years time. good luck Brad CCR <CCRiekernopsam.net> wrote in message news:7psuqq$te$1nopsamsc02.worldnet.att.net... > >>I have a strange problem with the clutch on my 87 9000T. > The clutch, slave cylinder & master cylinder were replaced about 11/2 years > ago. It was bled last week. It was always a bit touchy, but now there is a > regular fault. Every morning the clutch pedal goes almost to the floor befoere > doing anything, and pumping it doesn't seem to help. I get moving by starting > in gear. 15 minutes down the road the pedal is right up and working perfectly. > I have heard somewhere that the pipe between the master cylinder & the > reservoir can give problems....Anyone know the answer?<< > > These are the exact same symptoms that my friend described about his 89 9000T before he > sold it to me. Several visits to the shop for parts replacements were of no avail. Finding > no solution, he chose to live with the inconvenience. Several months after I purchased the > car, the clutch suddenly refused to disengage at all. The cause turned out to be stress > fractured metal that the master is bolted to. It seems that the outlet tube that exits the > top of the master cylinder doubles as a structural member, preventing the master from > flexing on its mount each time the clutch pedal is depressed. If the tube is not securely > snapped into the plastic retaining clip located on the firewall, the firewall under the > master will "oilcan" with each press of the clutch, until it fails. (from all indications, > this took about 1 1/2 years on my car) When R & Ring masters, small shops not familiar > with Saabs could easily miss this step, as the retaining clip is not at all in plain view, > or you might find that one leg of the clip has broken off. > > Not sure why the clutch should work OK after a few minutes on the road, but my guess is > that as the fluid warms, it becomes less viscous, requiring less force to move the > master's piston through it's short stroke. > > I'd suggest having a look to see if that tube is snapped in the clip. A flashlight and > mirror-on-a-stick might save you the hassle of removing and refitting those electronic > boxes. Hopefully, if this is the cause of your problem, you will have caught it before > your firewall breaks, since that is NOT a fun repair. My broken knuckle will attest to > that!! > > Good luck and keep us posted > Craig > >
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