Date: Mon, 11 Oct 1999 22:41:11 +0200
From: Robert Brown <rjbnopsamAMtripnet.se>
Subject: Re: clutch replacement 84 900 s


Hi, comments interleaved below . . . "James H. E. Maugham" wrote: > Robert Brown wrote: > > > > Right you are about bleeding the air from the clutch hydraulics via > > pressurising the brake fluid reservoir from above, but I'd venture to say that > > you can usually replace the clutch without disconnecting the slave cylinder > > from the feed pipe. Which means that if you have no air in the hydraulic > > system _before_ replacing the clutch, you probably won't have more once the > > clutch is replaced. Which means that you should be able to avoid having to > > bleed air out of the clutch hydraulics. > > I've found it more effective to pressurize the _clutch_ master cylinder > rather than the brake fluid reservoir when bleeding the clutch. :-) > > I should have mentioned that I pretty much automatically rebuilt the > slave cylinder when changing the clutch. Yup, dead right . . . I think that the workshop manual recommends that, when fitting a new clutch, that the slave cylinder be reconditioned at the same time. I've always ignored that advice, but sometimes wonder if I'm not living on borrowed time - 'cause if the slave cylinder goes, the clutch has to be removed at the same time when renovating the slave. > > > After changing clutches over the years on Triumphs, Jags, an Austin > Healy and a Rustang, changing the clutch on the 99 was actually > pleasant! No alignment tool (the output shaft performs that function), > no having to get under the car, everything accessible. > > > I've replaced two clutches on two 1983's (99GL and 900 GL) and haven't had to > > bleed the system afterwards. OTOH I work very slowly, takes about 4-5 hours > > for me ;-) // Robert > > You probably had A/C in the '83s. I didn't have that headache. :-) Nope, no A/C, I'm just a slow worker that's all ;-) > > > 1) Grill, hood and hood bow off. > 2) Drain and remove radiator (4 bolts, 2 hose clamps, fan thermostat > wire). > 3) You're there! Relieve pressure plate and install "special tool". > 4) Remove cap over output shaft access, remove output shaft. > 5) Unbolt pressure plate and Bob's your Uncle! > > I did a complete engine/trans changeout in less than a day once. Started > at 0800, was driving the car at 1730 that evening, albeit without the > hood and grill installed "just in case"! > > The only time the 99 ever stumped me was a futile attempt to change the > timing chain with the engine in the car. A blatant case of NOT listening > to the experts! Wound up pulling the engine/trans after 2 days of > useless effort. Turns out the experts were right. (I hate it when that > happens!) > > Regards, > > James Someone (could it have been Ken W?) in this NG wrote in a good method for replacing the timing chain, that would work even on a 99 H-engine (where there's too little room between the timing chain cover and the firewall). Using a chain breaker tool, break the chain between chain tensioner and cam chain sprocket, graft the new chain onto the old at that point, and turn engine so that chain is fed in clockwise (as seen from the back of the engine, facing forwards). Careful you don't jump a sprocket. Break out the rest of the old chain and reconnect the new chain onto itself. Probably a good idea to mark both ends of the new chain with a little white paint to make things easier. But then it's probably a good idea, when replacing the chain, to replace the chain tensioner at the same time, so I guess it's engine out time in any case . . . Rgds, Robert

Return to Main Index

The content on this site may not be republished without permission. Copyright © 1988-2018 - The Saab Network - saabnet.com.
For usage guidelines, see the Saabnet.com Mission and Purpose Page.
[Contact | Site Map | Saabnet.com on Facebook | Saabnet.com on Twitter | Shop Amazon via TSN | Site Donations]