Date: Wed, 12 Jul 2000 00:59:40 -0500 From: "Nate t. G." <ngoddardnopsamnect.net> Subject: Re: Need To Restore performance and power to your car??
hello, just trust me when i say that you REALLY don't want any PTFE (Teflon) type oil product in your car's engine. yes, the FRAM filter is a TERRIBLE idea. i like FRAM and use their standard and "ToughGard" on my cars (a ToughGard for the 900 Turbo). the DoubleGard (or whatever they call the one with PTFE) is not a good filter to use, however. i know a good number of people that can attest to the evils of Slick50 and PTFE. in the case of your engine, i'm not sure if i would attribute the idle speed increase to Slick50. what kind of engine is it? if it has a computer control, the fuel burn rate would automatically have been adjusted by the computer to keep the idle constant, thus the idle increase was most likely a compensation for something that was happening in your engine that it had to overcome. also, at idle your engine only loses about 12% of its energy to friction (under load this increases to at most 17%). to have the idle speed increase by 50% due to friction decrease would be impossible. that calculation would end up indicating that just putting Slick50 in your engine would make the engine turn by itself. as for having zero oil pressure in the Olds, remember (if i am thinking correctly) that the oil pressure sending unit is in the top part of the block, thus what it reads there is not necessarily what the crank journals are seeing. (could also have been a sensor that had lower-than-actual readings) also there is the engine oil splashing around inside to help. if there was no oil pressure at all, at the main wear points, for 3-4 months the engine would never have lasted that long. not even actual metallic-bonding agents can protect stell from wear that long. the problem with PTFE is that while it claims to stick and coat the surface with a slippery coating, the engine temps NEVER go high enough to actually allow that bonding. (go the originally posted web site and see their expose on Slick50/PTFE for more details. http://xcelplus.com/ for the main page, http://xcelplus.com/who_can_you_believe.htm for the report - note: i am not endorsing their product and don't use it (now), but they have good info). basically the surface temps would have to reach around 800-900 degrees (presume F) for PTFE to bond. and even if they did (in extreme cases), imagine taking a Teflon coated pan and scrapping it with a spoon or fork. how long would that last for? however, if the temp actually got that high, your engine would already be toast. instead the PTFE takes the place of the oil that should be flowing through the "hydraulic" bearing locations. currently i just use a full synthetic (Castrol Syntec) for my engine. its the best thing you can do for an engine. -- Nate t. G. '87 900 Turbo 16v Athlon 650 - NT "Junior Bodine" <jbodinenopsamnet> wrote in message news:E8Ha5.1529$s3.11483nopsamoon.columbus.rr.com... > What about the new Fram oil filters that have a charge of PTFE embedded in > the paper filter? Is that the same thing as putting Slick 50 in? > > I have used Slick 50 and noticed the extra lubrication smoothed out the > engine instantly and the idle speed went up about 400 rpm. Had to turn the > idle speed down. > > And my brother had an Olds 403 in a firebird that the oil pressure went to > about 10 pounds. He planned on an engine swap anyway, so he changed the oil > and added Slick 50 as a test. Soon after, oil pressure went to zero, but the > engine ran for 3 or 4 months before blowing up. > > "Nate t. G." <ngoddardnopsamnect.net> wrote in message > news:396c4134.0nopsamy.powercom.net... > > hello, > > the point isn't to have an additive in the oil. of course that is a > > waste. the attempt is to find a "dry film" lubricant (like graphite, if > > you've ever gotten it on your fingers - it is slippery to no end, and > > doesn't come off easily) for the engine. it has to adhere to the metal, > not > > flake, or form particulate (at all), and remain on the metal for a > > reasonable lenght of time. oil adheres some, but only when its being > pumped > > constantly. the point of a proper METAL treatment (not oil treatment) > would > > be to seriously reduce friction, and thus heat and wasted energy. > > Slick50 is DEFINITELY an EVIL product. while i know nothing about the > > product origianlly posted about (except what i read on THEIR site), they > do > > at least expose the fraud of Slick50 w/ PTFE (teflon) accurately. it does > > NOT bond to the metal, nor will it ever do so, and causes more problems, > > leading more quickly to engine destruction. > > i have heard of Militec-1 briefly, once, and the product info for > > Xcel-plus (this thread topic leader) both sound like they may be (at least > > somewhat) worth while. > > just my .02$ > > > > -- > > Nate t. G. > > > > '87 900 Turbo 16v > > Athlon 650 - NT > > > > > > "Marty" <nospamyouscumsuckingslimmurennopsamnet> wrote in message > > news:396A0094.2F7081Cnopsamnet... > > > Why are you using oil additives? Modern motor oils are formulated with > all > > > the additives necessary. > > > > > > There's a reason why car and oil manufactuers frequently recommend NOT > > using > > > such products. > > > > > > It displaces the oil and is a waste of money...IMO. > > > > > > Marty / SPG9 > > > > > > > > > Ken Washington wrote: > > > > > > > I got your spam hanging. I don't advertise for anybody. I really did > > > > have a team mate on my Monday night league team that was a Matrix > > > > distributor. I really did lose an engine to Slick 50. It cost me over > > > > $2200. I was very hesitant about trying Militec-1. I was looking for > > > > another additive like a certain President was looking for another > > > > intern... I have been using Militec-1 since Jan. 94. If someone wants > to > > > > find out about the product, they can do a web search for themselves. > Now > > > > lets talk about ketchup, or is that catsup. > > > > > > > > Ken Washington > > > > 87 9000S > > > > 87 900S > > > > 83 900T > > > > > > > > >
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