Date: Fri, 15 Nov 2002 22:40:39 GMT From: Paul Halliday <pjghnopsamyonder.co.uk> Subject: Re: Where can I find a buyer guide to the classic 900 (not the newer 900/9-3/9-5)
in article MPG.183f734b3c67fd169896b6nopsam.cis.dfn.de, Skodapilot at carl.robsonnopsamcing-czechs.com wrote on 15/11/2002 21:11: <snip>Proposal that the earlier 900 model would be a good start for Carl</snip> > Guess you know what Skoda drivers are like. Yup, the Skoda reputation is a great joke here in the UK, and elsewhere. Skoda know this too - just look at the Griff-Rhys Jones adverts :) That said, I have heard a great tale of a head-on between a Skoda Rally (Ralleye?) and a Jag... Is it just me, or do the Skoda Rallys (sorry, don't know the model name/number but you all know which one) bear an uncanny resemblance to the 99? :) > How long do the Cam chains last? For some reason, something tells to > trust a chain more than a belt, because as it wears, at least you hear > the rattle, and know it is time to get it sorted. I don't honestly know and have not had to replace one. I have heard horror stories about the cam chain dragging through the engine, ripping internal parts onto the road. [You mention Haynes manuals in your posting...] The Haynes I have for the 99, 90 & 900 models shows in detail how to check cam chain wear and ensure that it is the correct tension. I am not at all a mechanic, but I could follow this one through on my 900i and it seems fine. I think that if you look over the mechanics now and again and learn to listen to the car, you'll know when things are amiss. > I realise about the dangers and cost of knackered turbos. I know > to look for side to side and from to back float on the bearings on the > compressor side (can you get the boost hose off easily and reach in on a > Saab 900, and check for play?) But I suppose damaged, broken or just > burn off vanes on the blades is a lot harder to see, especially on the > exhaust side. Good to hear you know what to look for - maybe the turbo would be a good first 900 then. Replacement 900 turbo-chargers are about 500ish UKP, but shopping around might get a cheaper one. I recently looked over a 900 Carlsson - the turbo sounded like a helicopter taking off. I know I could have replaced it, but there were other things as well that just made it not worth buying. All good Saab turbos have at least a little whistle - you can wind the windows down and make up tunes on the way home from work :) As a layman, if it sounds okay, doesn't smoke and the water levels are up & well mixed with anti-freeze, the turbo should be okay. I think it was the MY 1989 when water cooling was introduced to the 900 turbo. The basic 900i has loads of room at the front to get into the clutch; the carburetted models even more room. Once you add a turbo, you've got some prep work to do before getting into this kind of stuff. Add the APC system and you've probably an hour's work to get all the pipe work out before you can get down and dirty at the front of the engine. My first 900 was an APC turbo from an auction and it needed an awful lot of looking after - I was really glad to have the 900i as my second Saab. I learned a lot from the first turbo and all that experience fits into place so much easier with the injection. I also now know what not to touch and leave to the professionals with my second turbo. I can't really think of any other quirks with the early 900s - they're front wheel handbrake cars, so you can practice James Bond reverse skids, and the Haynes details the voodoo incantations to reset the handbrake after replacing the pads. You sound like you know what you're doing with amateur mechanics (excuse the possible aspersion) and I think any 900 will be fine for you, armed with a Haynes. Look for good bodywork and the style that you like. Happy hunting. Paul 1985 900i 16V 1989 900 Turbo S http://pjgh.go.dyndns.org/saab/index.html
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