Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2003 20:33:40 -0000 From: MeatballTurbo <carl.robsonnospamcing-czechs.com> Subject: Re: just a thought about my base boost problem.
In article <3e65313enospam.greennet.net>, m.faulksnospamd-mail.co.uk spouted forth into alt.autos.saab... > > "MeatballTurbo" <carl.robsonnospamcing-czechs.com> wrote in message > news:MPG.18ceccab68f37bc398a221nospam.cis.dfn.de... > > In article <b42dv6$1ra2cj$1nospam52899.news.dfncis.de>, grunffnospam.com > > says... > > > MeatballTurbo wrote: > > > > If as I think, the vacuum cannister is leaking from the non-return > > > > valve, what would happen if I was to remove the two connections from > the > > > > cannister, and join them together? > > > > > > > > This would allow the system to pressurise both ways (not good), but > > > > would it allow the vacumm to complete, and allow full boost? > > > > > > > > Just as a test mind, not as solution? > > > > > > > > Or would I be better off trying fasten something like a stretched > piece > > > > of bicycle innertube over the outside of the cannister/valve/vac pipe > > > > and secure it with cable ties and see if that works? > > > > > > > > Rather not buy the part before I know if it is the cause, but want to > > > > get full boost back. > > > > > > > > What effect would removing the vacuum cannister from the vacuum loop > > > > have? > > > > > > > > > If all you want is to test it, then simply pinch off the hoses > > > going to the canister. All the canister is for is to 'power' > > > stuff like the air vents and the cruise when you have no vac in > > > the manifold. > > > > > > > > cheers. > > > > I think I will use a small bolt, and a cable tie into the end of each > > one, and see it that works, then replace one at time onto the bottle > > (blocking the none valve inlet with a screw when testing that side), and > > see what happens. > > -- > > Carl Robson > > The poster formally known as Skodapilot. > > http://www.bouncing-czechs.com > > Got to be worth a try, let me know how it goes. I still suspect the pressure > transducer though. Even if the vac canister was holed I don't think you > could loose enough boost to bring it right back to the base setting. But > then again, how often am I right LOL, > > Matt Bingo. Just disconnected the hoses, plugged them screws, and tried it out. Boost gauge needle returned to the previous position at about 1/3 white at idle. Took it out for a spin, the dash light for the boost guage is out, but I'm sure as I passed a street light I saw 3/4 yellow, but I was in second, and tyres had just started to light up as I was completing a turn onto a national speed limit road I use to test. Will know better in daylight, when I can watch the gauge more closely, and test it on the upslope to the M6 flyover on the way to the M62. Just a thought, wonder if I connected the hoses to the cannister up backwards? I had the hose that runs across the bulkhead connected to the valve and the hose that goes under the dash behind the cabin filter connected to the plain barb conenctor. Is that correct? Woo full boost is nice. Good job I'm getting new tyres fitted Thursday AM, got a set of Avon ZV1 arranged to be fitted at local AA garage, £250 including fitting, balancing, valves, and old tyre disposal. God it's good to be back :) Just need to work out if it is the cannister, the valve, or my connecting of the hoses that was dud. -- Carl Robson (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot) http://www.bouncing-czechs.com
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