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Date: Fri, 11 Jul 2003 00:36:32 GMT
From: 'nuther Bob  <nooneherenopsamaddress.com>
Subject: Re: Saab 9-3 Convertible Aero Article


On Thu, 10 Jul 2003 12:38:39 -0400, "J. Harris" <insectoatmindspring.com> wrote: >Initially I'd thought of only "upgrading" the '01; however, if the '97 >"upgrades" are more affordable then I'd love to hear about those too. >http://www.lehigh.edu/~t/Saab.html I hadn't see Eric's site before. That's a great overview of most of what you need to consider. Read through his site for general background and possible step-by-step when you get ready. Here's what I'd suggest: For the '01, you need to purchase an ECU upgrade. An MBC will not work with that Trionic. I did a post here a few months ago with some companies listed that will sell you an ECU. Prices range from $500 to $1000. For the '97, either buy an Dawes MBC or make your own. I can point you to the source site (plans) for what Dawes sells. I even made a minor improvement in the design if you are planning on making your own. An ECU upgrade is better, but it's the same money cited above. Do an airbox upgrade on both. You can do what Eric did. I did mine a little different, same rough idea but I got the intake down to the headlight/bumper are to insure cool air, not hot engine air. Again, if you're up for it, I will post details. It's easy. Add the K&N filter for both. Do the sports exhaust on both, unless the '01 came with it. Do the turbo silencer removal on the '97 (not there on the '01). Do the throttle body "polish and port" on the '97. Again, I improved slightly on what Eric did by doing both ends of the pipe and also the body to manifold connection. I don't know if the '01 needs this, but it's simple to check. Again, details available. * So far, unless you buy an ECU upgrade, you've spent less that $100 in parts in total for both cars. Spin up will be *significantly* reduced. Max boost will be increased with no "fade". With these mods in my car ('97), I can hold the boost at the redline easily. I only have a very slight delay pulling out into traffic if I forget to rev it first before it starts to fly. I actually broke the front end free *at speed* when going WOT in 2nd gear at 3000RPM to pass (in a legal passing zone :-) the other day. It rocks. Do the '97 first if you like. See what you think. It's a little time, but little money. Read what Eric has to say about the 3" downpipe. The decrease in spool time is amazing. It requires a fair bit of custom work to work in a new cat. It's also a little pricy. You should also consider some suspension work: This can get into some money. With added power you should have a little more suspension. I highly recommend Koni shocks/struts. I would not buy the 'Steins as Eric suggests as they are not adjustable. If you don't like it, tough luck. With the Koni's, you dial it what you want. Do the springs if you don't mind the clearance reduction and a slightly harsher ride. The lower CoG will make a big difference. Eibach are the most gentle. BOGE are a bit harsh according to reports. Abbott and Swedish Dynamics are even harder. Don't do the springs without changing the shocks to something like Koni's or 'Steins. (I think that I could avoid the tire breakaway at speed with stiffer springs but I have a 'vert and I am reluctant to stiffen the suspension due to the chassis flex issues. ) Consider the steering rack brace; there are two sources for kits if you don't want to DIY like Eric did. Check Talafarina Saab and/or Abbott Racing.) A rear sway bar is easy to do, but not really a "must have". The can also cause a little inside rear wheel lift on tight corners, although reports I've read are good on this issue. Bounce back any questions you have. Bob

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