Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 07:08:13 -0000 From: MeatballTurbo <carl.robsonnospamcing-czechs.com> Subject: Re: '99 9-5 rear brake pads DIY?
In article <c264cc$1ngrmo$1nospam34476.news.uni-berlin.de>, davehinznospamcop.net spouted forth into alt.autos.saab... > On Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:02:39 -0500, Fred W. <Fred.Willsnospampam> wrote: > > > > "Dave Hinz" <davehinznospamcop.net> wrote in message > > news:c20n42$1n3cgn$2nospam34476.news.uni-berlin.de... > >> My rear brake pads have announced that they feel that they need a break > >> (heh...), and are making grumbling noises until I do it for them. > > > > You may. But I must say that grumbling noises does not sound like brake > > pads to me. Sounds like maybe brake rotors (disks)? Or do you think you > > are down to the metal backings on the pads in whgich case the rotors should > > be closely inspected too. > > The pads were through to the metal, so I had metal-on-metal on the > outboard pad right side, and was within 1mm of same on the left side. > The rotors are fine so I decided not to go through all the work of > turning them (the lathe is _all the way_ in the basement, after all). > > >> 1. Anything unusual to expect? I've done brakes on 93s, 95s, 96s, 97s, > >> 99s, and Classic 900s... is there any surprise I am going to find as far > >> as tools needed or procedures or ??? > > > > No. Standard procedures apply. > > Actually, I was surprised at how to do the rear brakes on a '99 Saab 9-5. > For the sake of anyone googling for this in the future, here's the > procedure I suggest: > > 1999 Saab 9-5 Rear brake pad replacement procedure: ("Early type", apparently) > > 1. Decide if you want to do the left or right side first. > > 2. Locate the _wheel_ on that side of the car. These are usually located > along the sides, towards the back, and can be recognized by the black > rubber _tire_ (tyre) which will be the part of the car touching the ground. > > 3. Remove the wheel by first slightly loosening the wheel bolts, jacking up > the car, and removing the wheel bolts and wheel fully. > > 4. Using a 1/8" punch or equivalent tool, and a hammer or equivalent > tool, (I do not suggest using any part of your body as "equivalent", metal > is probably indicated although a rock can suffice for a hammer in a pinch), > drift out the two pins which go through the two sides of the caliper and > the slotted holes in each of the brake pads. The pins push from the > out-board side of the car in towards the centerline, which is convenient > unless you happen to be 1.5 feet (~0.5 meters) tall. > > 5. Remove the flat/bent steel spring which removing the above pins allows > you to do. Pay attention to the orientation so you can pretend you'll > remember long enough to put it back in (when really, you'll end up looking > at the other side to double-check anyway). > > 6. Using a wide prybar or equivalent tool, push the pads back into the > calipers far enough to withdraw the pads from the caliper. Press the > pistons further in once the pads are out (I was able to use my thumbs for > this). > > 7. Using the supplied (If you bought the Saab OEM pads) moly-kote grease, > spread it as directed in the diagram on the back of the pads. It is not > advised to put it on the front of the pads unless you want to not be > able to stop very well. > > 8. Put the new pads back in where the old pads were, only bigger. > > 9. Figure out how that darned spring clip thingy goes in & grow a third > hand to hold it in place while you put in the first pin. > > 10. Drive each pin in from the back (pointy-ish end towards the outside > of the car). Get everything aligned by hand, and drive it home with > light taps from a hammer. Don't miss the pins - lots of important stuff > is right in that neighborhood. (Accruacy counts!) > > 11. Put the road wheel back on, loosely tightening the bolts. > > 12. Lower the car onto the wheel. > > 13. Tighten the wheel bolts. > > 14. Repeat steps 1 through 13 on the other side of the car. > > Comments on this procedure are welcome; I don't mind if it ends up > on someone's website somewhere as long as I get the blame for it. All makes perfect sense to me. Infact sounds exactley like changing them on a C900, including the bit about not hitting any of the other important stuff down there. -- Carl Robson (The poster formerly known as Skodapilot) http://www.bouncing-czechs.com
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
