Date: 4 Mar 2004 02:30:38 GMT From: Dave Hinz <davehinznospamcop.net> Subject: Re: '99 9-5 rear brake pads DIY?
On Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:02:39 -0500, Fred W. <Fred.Willsnospampam> wrote: > > "Dave Hinz" <davehinznospamcop.net> wrote in message > news:c20n42$1n3cgn$2nospam34476.news.uni-berlin.de... >> My rear brake pads have announced that they feel that they need a break >> (heh...), and are making grumbling noises until I do it for them. > > You may. But I must say that grumbling noises does not sound like brake > pads to me. Sounds like maybe brake rotors (disks)? Or do you think you > are down to the metal backings on the pads in whgich case the rotors should > be closely inspected too. The pads were through to the metal, so I had metal-on-metal on the outboard pad right side, and was within 1mm of same on the left side. The rotors are fine so I decided not to go through all the work of turning them (the lathe is _all the way_ in the basement, after all). >> 1. Anything unusual to expect? I've done brakes on 93s, 95s, 96s, 97s, >> 99s, and Classic 900s... is there any surprise I am going to find as far >> as tools needed or procedures or ??? > > No. Standard procedures apply. Actually, I was surprised at how to do the rear brakes on a '99 Saab 9-5. For the sake of anyone googling for this in the future, here's the procedure I suggest: 1999 Saab 9-5 Rear brake pad replacement procedure: ("Early type", apparently) 1. Decide if you want to do the left or right side first. 2. Locate the _wheel_ on that side of the car. These are usually located along the sides, towards the back, and can be recognized by the black rubber _tire_ (tyre) which will be the part of the car touching the ground. 3. Remove the wheel by first slightly loosening the wheel bolts, jacking up the car, and removing the wheel bolts and wheel fully. 4. Using a 1/8" punch or equivalent tool, and a hammer or equivalent tool, (I do not suggest using any part of your body as "equivalent", metal is probably indicated although a rock can suffice for a hammer in a pinch), drift out the two pins which go through the two sides of the caliper and the slotted holes in each of the brake pads. The pins push from the out-board side of the car in towards the centerline, which is convenient unless you happen to be 1.5 feet (~0.5 meters) tall. 5. Remove the flat/bent steel spring which removing the above pins allows you to do. Pay attention to the orientation so you can pretend you'll remember long enough to put it back in (when really, you'll end up looking at the other side to double-check anyway). 6. Using a wide prybar or equivalent tool, push the pads back into the calipers far enough to withdraw the pads from the caliper. Press the pistons further in once the pads are out (I was able to use my thumbs for this). 7. Using the supplied (If you bought the Saab OEM pads) moly-kote grease, spread it as directed in the diagram on the back of the pads. It is not advised to put it on the front of the pads unless you want to not be able to stop very well. 8. Put the new pads back in where the old pads were, only bigger. 9. Figure out how that darned spring clip thingy goes in & grow a third hand to hold it in place while you put in the first pin. 10. Drive each pin in from the back (pointy-ish end towards the outside of the car). Get everything aligned by hand, and drive it home with light taps from a hammer. Don't miss the pins - lots of important stuff is right in that neighborhood. (Accruacy counts!) 11. Put the road wheel back on, loosely tightening the bolts. 12. Lower the car onto the wheel. 13. Tighten the wheel bolts. 14. Repeat steps 1 through 13 on the other side of the car. Comments on this procedure are welcome; I don't mind if it ends up on someone's website somewhere as long as I get the blame for it. Dave Hinz
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