Date: Tue, 4 May 2004 08:29:17 -0400 From: "Fred W." <Fred.Willsnospampam myrealbox.com> Subject: Re: Brake Recommendation?
"Hatchback" <hatchback299nospamottabekidding.com> wrote in message news:oPylc.379085$2oI1.71728nospamter01.bloor.is.net.cable.rogers.com... > My original factory brake hardware was obviously made of superior quality > materials. At 60K miles I had it all replaced as a preventive measure. My > mistake. "If it aint broke dont fix it probably should have prevailed". How right you are... > Pads were down by 50% and the rotors had a decent ridge but were still > "true". I should have had those rotors turned and re-used. No, you should have left them alone until the pads were down to 25% or less and then slapped some pads on there without doing anything to the rotors. Just because they ahve a ridge does not mean they need to be turned. You only turn them if they are not running true, and then you are probably better off getting *good* replacement rotors, > The replacement > pads and rotors barely lasted 6K miles and were a rusty mess. These parts > rust every night. Every morning there is a crunchy grinding noise as the > pads scrub away the rust. If the car sits for 2-3 days the rust is > unbelievable. Good thing I use it most days for 40 - 50 miles. I tried > EuroRotor thinking that it was of decent quality. Never heard of them. Why not get some brand name manufacturer's rotors and pads or OEMs and start over again? Good rotor brands would be ATE, Zimmerman, Brembo, Balo or SAAB. Get regular solid rotors. Don't fall for the cross-drilled or slotted hype. It just costs you extra money and wears your pads faster. You don't say what car this is for, so I can't tell you prices. Good street pads that are cheap and almost dust free are the PBR Deluxe's. They are also somewhat easy on the rotors, being a softer compound, but not good for high performance driving such as autocross or track use. YMMV, -Fred W
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