Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2004 19:06:00 -0400 From: "dorf" <alofusblountmaybenospamel.net> Subject: Re: Saab 99 questions and status
"Dave Hinz" <DaveHinznospamcop.net> wrote in message news:2u75g8F279v35U2nospamberlin.de... > On Mon, 25 Oct 2004 16:21:26 -0400, dave <alofusblountmaybenospamel.net> wrote: > > Hi, Dave, > > > > "Dave Hinz" <DaveHinznospamcop.net> wrote in message > > news:2u4np3F1vj2rbU1nospamberlin.de... > > (answering some of my own questions for the benefit of anyone googling > for the same things later) > > >> 1. What size nuts are used for the side and front engine mounts? Are > >> these SAE thread rather than Metric maybe? > > These are M10, it seems. For reasons I don't understand, some > SAE threaded nuts found their way into what I thought were the > nuts for the engine mounts, which is what was throwing me off. > > >> 3. I put the valve cover on already, haven't put the distributor in. Is > >> there an easy way to decide if #1, or #4, is at the top of the compression > >> stroke, without taking the valve cover back off? > >> > > Use a long screwdriver in the spark plug hole. > > Well, I know when it's at TDC, but #1 and #4 both are at the same time. > My solution (will try tonight perhaps) is to leave only spark plug > for #1 in, take the other 3 out. There will only then be compression > on one out of 4 TDC's, and it'll be the one for #1. Should be noticable > turning the engine by hand. I'll report on how that goes. If not, > it's not like pulling the valve cover is a big deal. > Perhaps I'm a bit sloppy, but I check for TDC on #1, and install the distributor. If the timing is not right, I must be 180 out. > >> 4. I'd like to pre-prime the oil system before starting the car. Should > >> I just crank it without spark and fuel for a while, or is it worth it to > >> come up with a hexagonal shaft to go into the oil pump and turn it with > >> a drill? If the latter, which direction? > >> > > In past engines, I had no problem cranking the engine with the spark and > > fuel pump fuse pulled. Turbo engine has a lot more oil passages tho'. So I > > would likely pop the valve cover off while cranking the engine over. (ack, > > too late huh?) > > I don't follow that at all? How does taking the valve cover off help my oil > priming, or are you saying I can watch for oil at the camshaft to know that > the system is full, or ??? > Yes, look for oil at the camshaft. > >> 5. There are two bolts going through the engine into the transmission > >> case, that are behind the flywheel. I've heard that some people don't > >> put these in, why is that? They weren't in when I took it apart, but > >> there were more than a few missing bolts so that's not a real good > >> indication of anything. Why would I want to leave those out? > >> > > I'm not sure which bolt holes you are referring to. > > There is an aluminum (or aluminium, if you prefer) cover on the "back" > of the engine (towards the front of the car), in which is the large > crank seal. At the bottom of that cover are two through-holes, > which correspond to two holes in the transmission. In every 99 or > 900 that I've taken apart, those bolts are not in place, and I don't > know why. > I don't know. I don't remember anything about missing bolts on that cover, I wasn't looking either. There are a couple of bolt holes for the flywheel stopper thing. Is that it? (that would be my guess) > > Try to not hurry too much! Might forget something. > > Wouldn't want to do that. I've got the Saab manual _and_ a Haynes > manual, so I'm making sure I get everything mentioned in both, as > well as the sanity check of "any extra parts? Any extra > connections?". > > Dave Hinz dave
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
