Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2004 18:45:15 +0000 From: Colin Stamp <colinnospamp.plus.com> Subject: Re: Washer Fluid Kickback
On Wed, 10 Nov 2004 10:52:40 GMT, SuoTimo <no.mailnospamspammers.co.is.no.where> wrote: > >Actually John B is correct without hesitation... > >If the top 2 L-valves (or either of them) leak then also the fluid leaks on the lamp nozzles. >Also it does not matter how one re-routes the hoses,,, It still drops... The nozzles are btw >all the time lower than the tank. > >Another symptom for leaky L-valve(s) is the loooong time it takes the water to reach the upper >nozzles and spray on the windshield or other nozzle might not spray at all. > >I have figured it out to myself that there is kind of balance of "gentle" power among the valves. >If one of them has a ruptured diaphragm the balance doesn't work and one of the lines will >not spray at all or the car's eyes will be always wet... > >If you blow air into the T-valve or L-valve gently and can feel or hear air blowing through >then the valve is shot. One way is to suck vacuum and hold the vacuum with tongue... > >Been there,, done that,,, it's not the T-Valve that leaks,,, it is the upper L-Valve(s)... >It also took me a while to figure it out - and believe it. > >I pierced a round piece of "rubber" from patch of bicycle tube repair kit to fix the valve. > I didn't say it wasn't the valves. I said the tape-test might not work. If the headlight nozzles are dribbling because air is being allowed back down the screen nozzles, then they should stop dribbling once the tubing to the screen is empty. The tape test should work in this case. If, on the other hand, the dribble-water is coming from the reservoir, then the tape test won't work, and the incontinence will continue until the reservoir is empty. If you know the layout of the system, then you should be able to tell which valve is leaking from which symptom the car is showing. Cheers, Colin.
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