Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 00:26:40 -0500 From: ma_twain <ma_twainnospamo.com> Subject: Re: oil change
BL wrote: > "John B" <rotten_NOSPAM_nospam.org> wrote in message > news:slrnd1q08k.upv.rotten_NOSPAM_nospamam.example.com... > >>On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 14:08:49 -0000, GG <dt97gdnonospamail.com> wrote: >> >>>Managed to shred the head of the 13mm sump plug trying to get it off to >>>change the oil - its still not off. >>> >>I've done the same thing, as have other people in this group. I got mine >>out >>using a "bolt-out" socket from Sears. It's basically a socket made of >>hardened >>steel with very sharp reverse threads in it. So when you put it over the >>damaged bolt head and turn it counter-clockwise, it bites deep into the >>metal >>and can turn the bolt. Also useful for rusted exhaust system bolts! >> >>Irwin makes a similar tool, if you don't have Sears wherever you are. >> >>And next time, you should use a 6-point socket on the bolt to avoid >>damaging >>the bolt head! Also make sure you don't tighten it past the specified >>torque. >> >>I'd recommend getting a replacement drain plug from your local Saab >>dealer- >>they're cheap. >> >>John >> > > > Saab uses a copper washer on their drain plug. Most auto parts stores carry > a rubber sealing washer for automotive oil drain plugs. I've have been using > a stock drain plug with a 1/2" rubber sealing washer with as a replacement > for the copper washer. > > If there is anyone out there that still uses 12 point sockets/wrenches, get > rid of them. They are hard on fasteners and on knuckles. > > BL > > > The Sears 12 point sockets are hard on fasteners and knuckles. I know this from personal experience and have the scars to prove it. Then I tried Snap-On flank drive sockets. These are 12 point and they grab on the flats, not the points. I use Snap-On flank drive sockets and wrenches now - and look, no more skinned knuckles! They also do not knock the chrome plate off the points on the lug bolts, so they lug bolts do not show rust.
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