Date: Mon, 7 Mar 2005 09:31:05 -0500 From: "The Malt Hound" <justmenospammputer...edu> wrote in message news:l7pm21p7obumer9inbfl0j6lgjm4noqbkjnospamcom... > 2.3L FI engine > 125K miles > > Following a new battery installation and having the engine die and > not > restart after driving it approximately 50 miles the car was towed > home > for further investigation. > > I ran a compression check to eliminate the possibility of a bad head > gasket. I noticed that the #1 spark plug had a wet look to it and > the > other three did not. Compression was good. > > The new battery went to 5.5v overnight with NO lights on and the key > in the lock position. I disconnected the negative battery cable, > charged the battery and reattached the cable. When contact was made > to > the post I heard a coil or relay at the right rear of the engine > energize and a could hear a humming sound. Removed the negative > cable > and checked current. 1.5A draw. Well, that explains the dead battery. > > After some experimentation with the ignition OFF, I determined that > the #1 fuel injector is turning on when the battery is connected and > there was a humming sound from a valve in a bypass hose that runs > from > above to below the throttle plate. The bypass hose valve is the Idle Control valve and this does contain a solenoid that hums when it is active. > > During subsequent checks I found the fuel pump fuse blown. After > replacing the fuse I was able to start the engine with it dying > after > a short run, as if it ran out of fuel. The fuse blew again while > testing around the #1 injector and the valve I mentioned above. I > had > not attempted to start the engine nor was the ignition on. I have > been > using a pushbutton switch to briefly connect the negative cable and > the negative post of the battery. > > I checked the internal resistence across the injector and it shows > 14 > ohms as does the #2 injector. I have the rear seat cushion pulled up > and do not hear the fuel pump trying to run. > > Not having a schematic I am at a loss to know where to look next > (other than having it towed to a dealer for repair). I also dropped > the panel under the dash to get to the relays but again with no > schematic I don't know how they are wired. Neither of these circuits (fuel injection, IAC valve) should be "alive" when the keyswitch is in the off position. This makes me think that, at a minimum, your key switch is FUBAR. AFAIR the control voltages for these devices come from the ECU, so in the event that you figure out what's wrong with that, you may still have other problems. Sounds like a good problem to bring to a good independant mechanic / troubleshooter. Schematics would seem to be an absolute requirement. -Fred W
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