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Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 13:27:43 +0100
From: Sleeker GT Phwoar <carl.robsonnospamcing-czechs.com>
Subject: Re: Turbocharger oil line replacement -- advice needed


In article <LJ6dnYTaquogMlzfRVn-qQnospamphia.com>, Malt_Houndnospamm*yahoo.com says... > Sleeker GT Phwoar wrote: > > In article <1119900024.155607.318550nospam2000cwb.googlegroups.com>, > > chadderboksnospaml.com says... > > > >>Noticing its performance recently taking a turn for the worse, I > >>discovered rapid oil loss and leakage at the left front of the engine > >>compartment. (Equipped with a piece of cardboard, I estimate that the > >>oil drips form a mostly "L" shape, with the long arm stretchin back a > >>foot toward the left front wheel and the short arm running about eight > >>inches toward the center of the car.) > >> > > > > > > If you mean left side from inside the car, > > Check the lines from just above the oil filter to down by the left hand > > front below the left hand headlight. > > > > My 1984 T16 had an horrendous oil leak. > > It didn't affect performance, but it went through quite a bit. > > I didn't discover the probable cause of the leak, until the day I sold > > the car. > > While showing the new buyer round, I discovered that the left hand side > > engine mount and wishbone upper bushes, and lower wishbone bushes were > > coated with oil, but the drain plug was clean. > > > > Moving forward of that, I discovered that the back of the oil cooler was > > coated too. It appears that somewhere down the cooler line, there was a > > leak, may have even been the cooler itself. It was fine unless it was > > pumping. And it reallys showed up when driving, as air moving down the > > cooler line blew oil all over the underside of the car and up the engine > > on the left hand side. > > > I heard they called that feature "DRP" (Dynamic Rust Proofing). > > ;-) > > -Fred W > Yes, it did have that quality, but it also had the added bonus of engine mount and wishbone buggering. The reason I was selling it in the first place was that the body work was shabby, the front handling felt odd, even though I had done the ball joints, and shocks and springs, and at slow speeds in 1,2,3, it would occasionally pop out of gear, especially in 1 and 2 at manouvering speeds when turning tightly. I thought gearbox gone or going. Decided to sell the car and put what I would spend on it, with what I got for it, and get something better (different it turns out, not necessarily better). But I have this sneaky feeling that changing the left hand engine mount and upper wishbone bushes, and maybe even the ARB bushes, that car would have driven as good as new again, for just a couple of hundred quid. The Celica by comparison needed new shocks and springs after a couple of months, needed new trailing arm bushes and rear diff cushion and ARB bushes all round, rear engine mount, has play in the rear diff/one rear drive shaft and so bangs on gear shifts if you shift quickly, needed new discs and pads allround, New exhaust system, leaks/uses more oil than the Saab did, even though I thought it was just the rocker cover gasket failed (hardened rubber gasket and signs of lots of oil down the back of the engine), but seems to use more since replacement, about 1 1/2-1 3/4 litres per 1k miles. Oh and I've put some semi serious scratches to the paint work in parking incidents when I first got it. Seriously considering a 2.3 FPT 9000 now and cutting my losses. -- Carl Robson Car PC Build starts again. http://smallr.com/rz Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

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