Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2005 16:45:35 GMT From: Icarus Q. Anybody <zinspacenospamo.com> Subject: Re: Saab 9-3 brakes...help!
On Sun, 28 Aug 2005 08:28:20 -0500, Sunday_Mechanic <mjsmandersonnospamo.com> wrote: > >Well, good news. After figuring out how the brakes work on the 9-3, I >was able to quickly install new rotors and pads. Here's the >breakdown... > >New tools: $78 >4 Wagner Thermo Quiet pads: $98 (O'Reilly's) >2 new front rotors: $92 (O'Reilly's) >1 bottle Dot4: $4 >Hours doing it the first time: 12 (including getting materials and >tools) > >Savings after my costs, compared with Saab quote: About $400 > >The car runs and brakes beautifully, no Midas touch required. > >Here's my experience: >1. You can save $thousands over the next several (or 75k+ miles) years >if you own your Saab that long by doing your own brakes. >2. Need torx tools and sockets, and Hex >Rotors are hard to find (even for Midas or other brake 'specialists' >since they get theirs from the same place I do with an upcharge) >3. Rear pistons rotate clockwise when retracting. You will need to >apply much pressure, and should go in after about 5-10 revolutions. If >you don't have a pin tool, use a pair of needlenose pliers to fit in the >piston holes to grip the piston. >4. If a piston is "stuck" and can't be pushed in (front or back) use >compressed air from an air compressor and release air into the brake >line intake of the caliper. The piston will blow out. Much care must >be used when doing this: the caliper needs to be removed from the brake >line, and do not try and catch the piston, do this against the floor >with a towel, since the piston will come out very fast. Then carefully >reinsert the piston inside the boot and push back into the caliper. >5. According to a Saab mechanic, there is NO bleeding sequence for the >9-3. I found this to be true, but just in case, the sequence I used >was: LF, RR, RF, LR >6. The brakes may rub a bit and sound like they are grinding for the >first 50 or so miles when you have new rotors and pads. This is due to >the pads 'setting'. They need to be heated up a couple of times and >set, as well as the new rotor-which is massive on the 9-3 - needs to >wear appropriately for the pads. The grinding sound will go away, and >it will drive and brake nicely. Since I was concerned about this at >first, I asked a Saab mechanic, and he validated the above, and was >correct in my experience. The brakes make no sound after about 50 >miles or so depending on your braking habits. There is a product you >can buy that the shops use to take care of this when applied to the new >pads. >7. If you don't have a large (24") brake wrench, get one. $25 at >Sears. It will save you alot of time loosening and tightening >bolts/sockets. >8. The 9-3 rotors are so big, you may not ever have to replace them. >Our car had 55k miles on it, and we were changing the brakes for the >first time. We chose to get new rotors on the front, because they had >been worn excessively. Also, the LF pads were disproportionately worn >to the RF, as well as the rotor. > >Next time I do this it will cost me about $50 in front pads and Dot4 >and maybe 2.5 hours tops. Compare that with a $300++ Midas brake job! >More money to play with.... Hi. I'm just about to replace the front brake pads on my 99 9-3. I'd like to avoid bleeding the whole system. Is there any way around it? (never worked on ABS brakes before.)
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