Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 18:34:19 GMT
From: Paul Halliday <pjghnospamyonder.co.uk>
Subject: Lucas C900 LPT - Stabilising the idle and fuelling
Hi guys! My Mrs' 1992 C900 LPT has been running swimmingly until recently.
It popped a manifold plug out, which has now been replaced, as have the
other two, along with all the vacuum pipes and the failed dump valve.
Before I changed the vacuum pipes over, I attached a pressure gauge and was
getting about 12 InHG at warm idle. I replaced the vacuum hoses and it rose
to 14 InHG. The dump valve was found to be leaking, so this has also been
swapped over and all the air leaks are now gone. I can spray carb cleaner
over all the potention areas and no change in engine pitch ... no leaks.
Yay! However ...
When first firing up the car, I get a sluggish start and billows of smoke
pouring out of the back of the car, along with a strong petrol smell. Out of
interest, I checked the resistance across pins 1 and 6 (Lucas AMM) and found
the reading to be quite high - 501 Ohms, to be precise. This should be
between 331 and 341 Ohms, from what I have read. It could well have been
setup higher than normal to compensate for an obvious air leak and now
things are fixed there, it's over-fuelling. Is that plausable?
I wonder if this is causing a massive over-fuelling? Interestingly, left in
park (it's an automatic ... I don't know if that makes a difference), I rev
the car at, say 2500 RPM for 30 seconds, or so and let off the throttle, the
engine vacuum is great, at just over 18 InHG (spot on!), the idle good and
the exhaust clear. Leave it for a minute, or so ... the idle goes lumpy, the
vacuum creeps to 15 InHG and the exhuast starts to smoke again with a heavy
fuel smell. I wonder if holding the revs causes the lambda to stabilise the
fuelling and all is well ... until idle, again :roll:
I have read that the earlier Lucas systems, say 1990, needed to be adjusted,
but the later ones, say, 1992 onwards did not because the lambda sorts it
out. Is this hooey? Should I adjust the AMM? If so, how? I have a blue
plastic dot that would appear to obscure a hex socket ... am I in the right
area? If I shouldn't (need to) adjust the AMM ... where should I be looking
for the problem? Is there a kind of reset for the system? Should I pull the
battery negative for an hour, or so?
I'm a little stuck, as you can imagine. This is far more complicated than my
8V tractor and I'm very much "green", as far as T16s are concerned. I should
say it threw a 'Check Engine Light' this evening, but after two more warm
starts it has not, so I was unable to see what the engine thought was the
problem.
Please help ...
Paul
1989 900 Turbo S
http://saab.go.dyndns.org/