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Fuel level sender replacement notes Posted by Gene N [Email] (#1094) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Gene N) on Sat, 25 Aug 2018 11:23:57 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Replaced the fuel level sensor on my 2005 Linear with 100k miles yesterday, about 4 hours total. I ran the tank down to one gallon to make it easier to remove the tank. Pete's excellent description (see link below) of the replacement of the fuel pump covers most of it, but I wanted to add a few extra things.
I had the OTC tool that Pete linked to, but I had already purchased it over a year ago when the gauge first started acting up. The fuel gauge would read empty for the first 100 miles, then jump to 3/4 and work for the rest of the tank. I just put up with it for a year.
I had problems with all of the quick disconnect fittings, and even though I tried to be careful, I managed to break the locking mechanism on 3 out 5 of them. I guess that 14 year-old plastic is going to do that. I set that problem aside, and went to work on the fuel filler pipe. I struggled for a while trying to get my fat hands up in there to remove the filler hose and vent pipe. I finally removed the rear sway bar and that gave me enough room to get the pipes off so I could remove the straps and lower the tank to the ground. I struggled with the OTC ring removal tool for a while, but just couldn't get enough torque to loosen the ring. I turned the tank on its side with the fuel pump closest to the ground and was able to release the ring by pushing down on the breaker bar. Once the fuel pump was out (another quick release connector to fool with inside the pump), I was able to replace the sensor. I used the original A/C Delco part (SK1184), and was able to find it online for $35 instead of $60 for the SAAB part. Apparently the sensor also fits a 2009 Chevy Malibu. The only tricky part is you have to disassemble a connector inside the pump, push out the two pins for the old sensor, push in the wires for the new sensor and reassemble the connector. Grease the new pump O-ring, fit the pump and install the lock ring. I used the same technique to install the lock ring as I did removing it. In Pete's description he was only able to get the ring to the first click. Pushing down on the breaker bar with the tank on its side I was able to get the ring to the second click and fully engaged.
After fitting the tank back into the car, I attached the quick release fittings to the fuel lines and fuel vapor lines. I was able substitute zip ties for the broken locking pieces, feeding the tie through the slots in fitting and tightening the zip tie after the fitting was installed. It did the job of locking the fitting and it should last as long as the original. I installed the filler hose and vent pipe.
Reinstalling the sway bar requires both wheels off the ground. Fit the bushing holders into the rear subframe and lower the bar and bolt both sides. I had problems with the spring being in way of the bolt that attaches the link to the hub. I was able get around this by jacking up the wheel slightly until I could push the socket extension through the spring.
If this happens again, I will replace the whole pump. With only 100K miles on this pump, I thought it was worth the risk of only replacing the sensor.
Keep in mind that even though I ran the tank down to one gallon and removed the fuel pump fuse while the car was running, I still had plenty of gasoline on the floor of the garage, especially when I pulled the pump out of the tank.
->Posting last edited on Fri, 7 Sep 2018 04:52:53.
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