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OK: 1998 Saab 9000 CSE 5 speed 217,000 miles
1)Dash light dimmer switch. This had been bugging me for a couple of years, I had figured out that I could squeeze the base of the dimmer (near where the plug connects), I had resorted to using a c clamp on it with the switch hanging off the dash...well, finally got sick of that thing hanging there, so I took the dimmer switch out, got my multimeter, and started testing the prongs that plug into the connector. Finally figured out (using the continuity function of my multimeter) which prong was the ground, and then found the one prong that was intermittent by squeezing the base of the dimmer switch, or wiggling each prong as it was connected to the ground and watching for a break in continuity. When I found the "loose" prong, I followed it to the spot where it connects to the small circuit board (of the dimmer switch itself) and then re-soldered that spot on the circuit board. [I have a fair amount of experience soldering: make sure not to burn the board, or to use too much solder that could make an accidental connection to another spot on the board...it can be done!].
BTW I have a parts car, and the exact same thing happened to its dimmer switch, and I have read posts previously about this, so I know it happens pretty regularly.
2)Rear door lock actuator: This had failed a few years ago, I read a post where someone had gotten a replacement on Amazon, so thats what I did (High Power Door Lock Actuator 2 Wire, $6.99 free shipping http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088YE6YQ/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0088YE6YQ&linkCode=as2&tag=thesaabnetwork). Taking the door apart is the the hard part, but once you do that the rest is easy. I cut the connector wires from the original then spliced those wires onto the replacement, to utilize the stock connector, but otherwise it fit perfectly. Used cable ties and the original screws, everything went back together perfectly. I used the opportunity to saturate the linkages with PB Blaster. Now when the door lock, this one absolutely ZIPS up or down, such a nice sound!
If I could only fix the intermittent nature of the lock feature when I use the remote...I know the unit is underneath the steering wheel, I guess I'll get to that sometime soon. For now, it locks first time every time, but unlocks sometimes on the 1st, 2nd, 3rd push of the remote...sometimes the 10th push. Not sure what the issue is there. It does seem to be slightly better since replacing the actuator but still intermittent.
3)Switch Pack-Driver side window: The window switch would allow me to open the window, but I had to "massage" the switch to get it to come back up. I was worried this would cause me trouble during inspection, so I decided to investigate the switchpack. Removal of the switchpack is easy, use a small screwdriver to gently pry one end up, then lift the entire switchpack up. There is a small amount of slack in the thick cable, and the connector comes off pretty easily. As I mentioned, I have a parts car, so I wasn't afraid to take the thing completely apart. I used a small "jewelers" flathead screwdriver for most of the dissassembly, the unit is held together with small plastic tabs. Use the screwdriver to gently lift the edge of the sleeve to allow the tab to escape from the small hole it lives in, while pulling the two pieces apart...it can be done! The switchpack comes apart into three sections (think of the electrical "guts" with two plastic "retainers" sandwiching it). When I got the final section loose, there was a shower of small copper pieces that fell out, these are the contact points for the switches themselves. Don't worry, they just sit in their respective slots; however there is a "handedness" or orientation to them, so if you can preserve one or two in their original positions, its easier to figure out how they go back together. There are several different shapes corresponding to the different individual switches of the switchpack.
The real "guts" of this operation, however, are the little spring-loaded posts that make contact with the copper pieces. These posts attach into the switch itself (ie the part that you move with your finger) and they come out pretty easily. I used needle nose pliers, and I think you just twist a quarter turn to get them to release. It was obvious that one of the driver window posts (there are two for each window switch) was worn down. So I swapped a good one from a rear switch. I took the opportunity to literally wash the plastic parts in my kitchen sink, so nice to have a squeaky clean switchpack! I also cleaned the copper contact points with a pencil eraser, and sprayed the electrical parts with "Contact Cleaner". Reassembly was straightforward (after making sure everything was dry).
Windows now work fine, with two small issues: I no longer have the "one touch down" feature. I assume this has to do with either the nature of the metal posts or the orientation of the copper contact plates. Interestingly, both front windows now will not go down with one touch, although I only switched the driver side metal posts. Second, the rear window now goes down a bit too easily, presumably due to the worn nature of the metal post [as the post wears, it gets shorter, so the effective force of the spring is reduced. So now the driver side switch feel brand new, while the rear window switch feels "soft"].
4)Speedometer: see previous posts. The speedo failed at 217,000 miles. My tests have confirmed that the problem is the gear within the tranny (final confirmation obtained by spinning speed transducer [removed from tranny, ignition on] using electric drill. Speedometer worked fine, my 8 year old son said we were going 70mph! and odometer registered 0.1 miles with a short burst from the drill. Will wait to get this fixed until the clutch fails (5 speed manual) or tooth fairy drops $1500 into my account.
Interestingly the long-term effects seem to be a drop in mpg from 26.5 to around 22mpg, and stalling when gears are disengaged. I have now learned to "double clutch" when approaching a stop to prevent stalling. I am also using my last-generation smart phone as a makeshift speedometer/odometer.
Take home lessons: electrical stuff can be figured out, if you have the inclination, patience, time, and the right tools! I thought I might have to "retire" this car, but for now it is working pretty well, still compares favorably to many newer cars! Plus, at this point, I have fixed so many things on it, I am not as "afraid" of catastrophic failure as I used to be...although I still maintain AAA Gold membership for the towing coverage!
posted by 68.189.24...
, Fri, 4 Apr 2014 05:07:45, Sat, 5 Apr 2014 04:42:22
1, Wed, 2 Apr 2014 10:03:08
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