Finally, I can open my door. Latch removal how-to too. - Saab 9000 Bulletin Board - Saabnet.com
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Finally, I can open my door. Latch removal how-to too.
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Posted by RayF (more from RayF) on Sat, 5 Apr 2014 18:29:41 Share Post by Email
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Most of the winter I have been suffering from a driver door that couldn't be opened from the outside, unless I only closed it to the first click.

No garage and it's been unpleasantly cold so I succeeded in sliding by until halfway decent weather.

Not many sneak thieves around here so I often left it half-shut overnight, and finally got myself trained so nine times out of ten when getting out of the car I only closed it lightly.

Last week I spent a warm afternoon at a junkyard, and pulled myself the latchworks, outside handle, and inside handle so I was set for whatever.

Turned out a little pot-metal bent finger, with nylon roller on it, off the back of the outer handle, was partly cracked. Junkyard one looked fine. I can't see any way mine could have been forced enough to crack, I think with the handle pulled all the way out there's still spring give in the arm off the latch that this finger triggers. Chalk it up to repetitive stress and 18 years of age. I replaced it and also took door further apart and lubed everything.

Having had same door apart on an earlier 9000 of mine I knew all the tricks but it was only around 40 and windy, and the sun kept disappearing. so not much fun.

Let's see, here's some door-works removal how=to:

1. Pry plugs out of inner door pull-handle, pry caps off screws at either end of cubby, tug the cat's-tongue little tab off the power window switch, pry the little foam pad under it back and use a small screwdriver to trig the plastic catch, tip switch out at rear, then out from front, unplug it. Pull on inner door handle and twist and slide off the black surround, hooks up under inner panel at top. T-10 screw I think it is on door jamb end holding courtesy light on, then tip light outward and pull it back from behind door panel at front end, unplug it.

2. Panel screws: One T-20 I think it was, up in where courtesy light was, at front end of the little metal strip that the T-10 screw was in. Two shouldered long screws, front and rear of cubby, T-25 I think. Two screws in deep holes in inner door pull, T-25 again I think. One screw, with funny H-shaped metal clip, in behind where mirror switch was, T-20 I think.

3. Then with window run all the way down to help popping off top edge, first pop two prong connectors loose by prying panel out, one at bottom rear corner up just a little, one up front edge about 8 inches. Panel slanted out at bottom, bang on bottom edge till the tight spring metal clips release from door sheet metal lip at window, working from rear to front. Then unplug rear hatch release button from its connector, lift panel up over the inner door lock button, and set it aside. (There are four of those tight spring clips at top edge. They're needed but I slid two out of the channel and tossed them.) Now run window back up all the way so you can get at inside of door.

4. Slit through the long strip of masking tape at top of foam door inner lining. Using a serrated small kitchen knife if needed, pull loose or cut through the black urethane goo holding back edge of said foam to door sheet metal. Also work the foam sheet out over the door handle near front so you can leave the foam intact, folded down, rear pulled free halfway down or so, front fully attached still. Cut through black tape and zip tie holding three electrical connectors to door tin. They are hard to pry open.

5. The latchworks has several pivot points, and they have stiffened up over the years. I removed it all and oiled all those points so it works freely now. Reduces strain on key and on door lock button and on power door unlock motor. To remove it: First remove wire linking to inner door release handle. Pry the plastic clip off the wire shaft at latchworks end, twist it out to side and end of long wire link will pull out of its hole. Then there are three T-40 bolts in end of latch plate, cracked free with a 3/8 breaker bar, then spun out. Take latch plate off end of door, and there's a single screw under it, T-20 I think, to be removed. Then there's a 10mm-head bolt, down under foam liner below the power lock motor, and also a poppet-end wire link arm hooked to a ball on back of lock cylinder, and it will all pull out. You may need to remove the outer door handle at same time:

6. Outer door handle is held on by one 10mm=headed bolt in from door end, and one stud with 10mm nut on it at front, up inside sheet metal. Also the link to the ball stud on back of lock cylinder, AND the white jacketed skinny wires linking the lock cylinder's electrics to the car. That wire is held back out of the way of the moving glass by a black plastic rig with two 10mm head bolts in from end of door, in two rounded holes in which the wire is pushed, to run where it should. Pop the link off the key cylinder, pry apart the big square grey connector down in the door, unbolt the window guard block and work the wire out of it, and handle will come out of door.

7. Lubing points can't easily be seen unless latch works is out of door. You can figure them out. Sliding parts especially need attention. I just used light oil, like 3 in 1. I also pulled back the rubber hood at top of power lock motor and gave its shaft a few drops of oil, re-hooked the rubber.

8. THERE'S A TRICK TO REASSEMBLING LATCH PLATE OR DOOR WILL SHOW UP AS ALWAYS OPEN ON PICTOGRAM: The latch plate with associated moving latch tongues comes off as a piece, (the three T-40 bolts hold it on). On reinstall, you should trigger the latch tongues to close all the way, as if the door had been closed, and this will put the skinnier rod sticking out of it in the correct position to fit into a nylon arc-shaped track it runs in, that swings a magnet to and fro along a reed switch that talks to the pictogram. Once bolted back onto the door, you NEED TO REMEMBER TO UNLATCH THE DOOR BEFORE TRYING TO CLOSE IT. (You can also install it in un-latched position but if you do you'll have to be reaching up inside the door and moving said nylon track to be in position for the little pin to fit into it.)

Reassembly is otherwise reverse of removal. Popping little link onto ball of lock cylinder isn't easy. Also make sure white-jacketed wires are run correctly through the guard so they don't get hit by the window, and strap and tape the three connector plugs back so they stay out of the way of the window on inside. And when putting the panel back on, run the window all the way down again, so you're not fighting the glass when you hook the edge with those spring clips down over the sheet metal and push it home.

Mine works swell again.



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