1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
At the pace I have been going I'm surprised it didn't take me till Easter morning.
And it runs sweet and smoke-free.
Used a high-speed knot-type wire brush in a roto-zip type tool with a router speed control to slow it some, to clean rusty lines, corrosion and rust off turbo, rust out of turbo-to-manifold and exhaust stud threads, rust off exhaust manifold, etc. then gasoline on a rag to clean turbo pipes, rubber boots etc., and oiled and ran all hose clamps both ways. Replaced lowest hose clamp (on boot into intercooler) with one from higher up, parts car. Also cleaned up nuts I planned to use and oiled threads and ran things on and off.
Had to take the oil line and the lower coolant line off the turbo, no way I could get at the 13 mm banjo bolt on the upper one if I'd wanted to.
I picked the best looking of the various banjo bolts, and reused the washers. All clean, no leaks. The lower of those bolts take a beating from the road salt. On the parts car, the oil line to filter housing bolt had rusted down from 12 mm to 11 mm at the head and actually less as the wrench slipped on it so I gave up. Had a much more presentable one on my car.
I had to clamp one of the banjo bolts in a vise with cardboard to wrestle my 6 point 12mm socket off it, it had jammed on so bad.
I reused the 4 nuts turbo to manifold, and 3 of the same 4 nuts from junkyard car as the turbo to exhaust flange nuts. Those flange nuts take a fierce beating from the heat, and burn down so they're hard to get a wrench on. Would be better to try with a 6-point box end wrench if yours are seriously rusted. Turbo-to-manifold on the other hand seem full size and on both cars, once cracked loose, spun off with fingers.
I did all work on my car with the AC pump still in place, didn't really want to pull wheel and inner fender liner and put my belt holding rig on it.
This meant way less room and I needed all my patience. Did all those connections with just a box-open wrench, 13mm for turbo, 12mm for banjo bolts. Lots of repositioning but on assembly, thanx to cleaning and oiling first, I could get everything near tight with my fingers.
Dropping the exhaust doesn't really gain you much room because there's almost no slack on the oxygen sensor wiring - - unless you take the oxy sensor all the way out from plug forward, massive work.
Putting banjo fittings on, you can't drop any of those copper washers, they're not magnetic.
I took completely off the bracket from block to turbo. On both mine and junkyard car, the front bolt was loose so it was doing nothing, and on two other cars I've had there was no bolt on it at all. I think it might help by lessening strain on exhaust manifold, whose studs have been known to loosen and pull from block, but I can't see it really doing that if it loosens itself up.
Getting turbo up and in was still a little iffy, need to wrestle it a little, and getting oil return line into the rubber tube is a trip, but once in and a couple nuts on the studs, rest of reassembly was a dream. A slow, flat-at-a-time dream.
Definitely take the fan off the radiator if you're doing this.
Not bad, though lots of time, total dollars invested $20 plus almost as much for the oil it used while it was burning it.
posted by 71.173.64...
, Sun, 20 Apr 2014 09:52:40
, Wed, 16 Apr 2014 14:32:39
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