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BT - -
This has been much discussed on here and the C900 BB and doing searches both places should turn up many suggestions.
There is just enough slack that you can press a new fitting into the old line, once I believe, if you cut the line off as close as possible to the old fitting.
The new fitting needs to be pressed into the line cold using some kind of tool, very similar to the banjo bolt press recently discussed on C900 board. An oak block bored for the line, then sawed in two, with two through-bolts with wing nuts to clamp the line into it. Then another block, with shaped recess for the one-way valve, and two through-bolts with wing nuts into the line-clamping block, at right angles to the other bolts. Stick a little line out of the first block, get the valve started, stick a little more out, press it in more, stick a little more out, press it home.
Stick too much out at once and it could buckle over and kink and you're screwed.
You need to be careful to have the valve "clocked" correctly to the line, since the line can't be twisted.
You might get away with using the clamp block from a tubing flaring kit, then you only need to figure some kind of block to push the fitting in, two long bolts to put pressure on, and some kind of chunk of 2x4 or other on back side of clamp block to put your bolts thru and run wing nuts against.
The high pressure fuel line you can clamp on is not cheap. And I think you need to have the fitting installed in some of the original type line, for it to be able to be clamped by the high pressure fuel line of a size that would fit over and clamp to the line in the car. A better option for joining in a check valve from a junkyard car, cut out with some of the tubing, than a new barbed check valve.
Maybe the barbed end could be clamped by the same size high pressure line as needed to go over and clamp to the existing fuel line; other heads may know.
posted by 71.173.66...
, Sat, 28 Jun 2014 05:51:37
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