1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Finally got head back from machine shop and installed.
Total cost was $370, with giving them a usable head. Included removing exhaust studs, and drilling out one broken exhaust stud. I say usable, but after taking out valves they showed that there was play in the exhaust valves, which they said required installing guides. Also they said they do all the Saab heads from a local dealer, and they always cut the exhaust valves and the seats. Couldn't argue, they said if we didn't want it done right (their way) to take it somewhere else. No time for that!
Reused the head bolts as they were the partially threaded ones, with thick diameter un-threaded shoulder. No washers on those, but large base under the bolt head. First, all bolts in proper sequence to 44 ft lbs, then next step to 59 ft lbs, and finally the last 90 deg.-THAT was tough, even with breaker bar!
Was concerned about all of the timing marks. We had first used cable ties to keep chain on timing sprockets, but then could not see how to lift the head clear of the chain and sprockets. So we marked with nail polish the chain and each cam sprocket prior to dis-assembly.
The reassembly was the point of confusion. Could never get the paint marks to jive, at the same time as the hash marks on sprockets when perpendicular to head. The camshaft hash was close the the 'V' on camshaft cap. What to do?? We can't risk bad valve timing and ruin the job.
After hours of putting tension on chain on exhaust sprocket, counting links in between marks, we realized what might have happened. We had turned the crank back and forth a few times in order to move pistons so that cylinder walls could be cleaned. They had some rust from the water. Once the crank was rotated, we never got the paint marks to match up again.
We hoped for the best when first cranking it, and she fired up. The idle swinged a bit from 800 up to 1400 rythmically for the first few minutes. After the coolant temp began to register on the gauge, indicating the T-stat opening, the idle seemed to smooth out.
After getting up to temp and radiator fan turning on, the exhaust pipe was still putting out a decent amount of white smoke. Burning out the moisture in Catalytic converter, resonator, and muffler??
All in all a big job. Included was replacing the leaking heater core, water pump, and fried DI cassette.
posted by 98.15.243...
, Sun, 31 Aug 2014 09:29:30, Sun, 31 Aug 2014 13:18:52
, Wed, 27 Aug 2014 15:36:28, Sat, 30 Aug 2014 07:21:44
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