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Well, lessee...
I don't have any experience with the 9000 taper pin and I don't even have a manual car so I can't go under to look what kind of space you have to work in.
But I have some thoughts.
You need to press out a set-in-place driven fit pin, maybe one that is still set where it was originally driven to and is still holding even without the nut to keep it there. Or maybe one that has been moving around (and held in place with your hose clamps?) and has sort of set into grooves worn by friction, if it's been loose.
Either way you need to apply some irresistible force down against its former nut end, without pressing at all on the fat end and allowing it some room to move outwards.
If the nut end cracked off subflush it would seem easier than if it cracked above the surface, as you have a depression where you can put something to push against.
I just advised someone, maybe you, to put a fat nut over the big end of the pin, and then press on the other end using either a C-clamp or a big (10") pair of vise grips.
Since you no longer have a nut end to press on, here's what I'd do: Put a ball bearing down in the depression where the nut end broke off, if there is a depression, and a fat nut over the fat end, then apply the pressure either with the C-clamp or the vise grips going over it and around everything including the fat nut on the other side. (The ball bearing being of a diameter to go up in where the taper pin is, not jam against the hole.)
If it starts movement and it needs some further pressing, take ball bearing out and follow up with something a bit longer.
If the nut end still has a stub sticking up, put a fat nut over it too, and then something to press with down inside the nut, then the C-clamp or vise grips, running right around everything including the fat nut on the other side.
You might want to go to the C900 BB and do a search, those cars also have taper pins holding shift linkages and lots of people have been in your boat; that's a very crafty DIY database.
posted by 71.173.7...
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