1985-1998 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
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Hey all.
Just looking for suggestions on an idle issue on my 1993 Aero 5spd. When the car warms up, the idle is not smooth and constantly wants to creep up around 1000 rpm. If I drive around with the A/C on, then put it on Econ while stopped... sometimes it does drop to around 900 and idle smooth. But then the next time I stop if I keep it on Econ it does the same thing. It drives great and I have full boost otherwise.
As far as the TCS goes... I just replaced the safety valve with brand new and also swapped in a good Throttle body w/calibration done to cure a Limp home mode I was having on hot restarts. Red/white valve tests fine but has not been replaced at this time. Also, the traction control valve on the fender is original/suspect although I have read many posts saying this valve can be "bad" without causing any drive-ability issues. The one on my car seems to be stuck so that air will pass through all three hoses at the same time vs only one side or the other. It has always done this, you can hear it at idle... This is an expensive part that tests fine electrically so Im hesitant to replace it. I actually took the "bad" valve off the firewall that was going to open circuit when hot and swapped it for the fender one because the "bad" one does not pass air through all three ports, only two.
Question: When does the control valve on the fender get used? Like, when is that valve supposed to see ported vacuum from the Throttle Body vs. full vacuum from the "T" connector? Some people are under the impression that it has something to do with cruise control but I don't think that's the case.
Anyway, the car is not throwing any CEL's now that the TCS issues have been worked out.
Other things I have already done are:
BCPR7ES-11 gapped to .9mm ~ The ones I pulled out looked okay, but maybe a bit lean. They were really light brown almost white like sand. One had a black mark on the ceramic like the spark jumped and two had really dark coppery looking tops
New Bosch black top NTC sensor (coolant temp)
Swapped in spare DI cassette (no change although the DI is also older/used)
Fuel filter is new
All vac lines are new red silicone... looks cool :)
PCV valve cover bushing is new and tight
PCV one way valve is also new and facing the intake manifold
Gas cap is new with one from eEuro (has 4 vent looking holes in middle on underside?)
Battery is a new Bosch premium
I just had to refit a brass nipple on the intake manifold with JB weld. It was the one that goes to the FPR. I hoped this was my problem but the idle problem remains.
Other clues are:
Hard starting when cold (5-7 cranks or more) and also when it does fire up I get a loud brief squealing type noise that's hard to describe but sounds like its coming from behind the gauge cluster.. like where the brake reservoir is but I can't really tell.
If I put an electrical load on the system such as holding both window buttons to the up position, the idle with drop to 850-900 and hold steady. When I release the buttons, the idle jumps back up to 950-1000.
It seems to go through its warm up process perfectly and the idle is quite smooth, its only when the car is warm and the EVAP can starts clicking that idle issue is present.
Sorry for the long post I can't think of anything else.
ANY SUGGESTION is appreciated... FPR? MAP sensor? fender control valve? Car is just OLD?
TIA
posted by 108.171.130...
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