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I have been able to do this without bending the sheet metal (near the lower alternator bolt), and without moving much on top except the MAP sensor bracket. Having said that there are benefits to clearing the space as described, and in the past I have broken some small plastic parts on the top of the engine compartment!
One point is worth emphasizing: remove the two lower bolts holding the PS pump bracket (there are four in total) before removing the two PS pump bolts that hold the pump into the bracket. Once the pump is loose itis much harder to get at those two lower bolts (and much easier to get at the two upper PS bracket bolts!)
On one car one of the upper PS bracket bolts was corroded/seized, but on the second car I did all the bolts came out easily. It requires dexterity and a combination of ratchet wrenches, extenders, and assorted to get at all these bolts (I think they are all 13mm sockets). I used my 1/2" and 3/8" wrenches, a breaker bar, and normal and deep sockets in combination with extenders and adapters to get at them all. Removing the items at the top of the engine compartment allows better views and access, but it can be done from below after removing the inner plastic mud guard.
Also, to get at the upper alternator bolt I did not bend the sheet metal. I used a standard 8mm Allen wrench with a short extender on it for leverage. It is a very tight fit: the Allen wrench *just* fits.
It is easy to move the PS reservoir up top, this gives you room to move the various tubes around as you get the PS pump free and moved out of the way.
Once you get the PS pump out of the way the alternator does come out through the bottom.
Last, don't forget to remove both wires from the back of the alternator. The large one is easy to see and loosen. The small wire is more hidden, and lower, but it can be gotten at without moving the oil filler tube. On my first attempt I did free the alternator before locating the small wire (8mm socket)-be careful if you do it this way not to break the wire.
posted by 96.252.45...
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