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Re: I have a bit more information Posted by sam96CS [Email] (#852) [Profile/Gallery] (more from sam96CS) on Thu, 7 May 2015 04:23:46 In Reply to: I have a bit more information, Mike Johnson, Thu, 7 May 2015 03:11:03 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
The fact that it downshifts fine when you give the gas make me think you could be right to wonder about the transmission mount.
You can see the transmission mount with the hood raised. If it is weak or broken you'll get more vibration, reluctance to shift under light throttle and stress on the engine mounts. The stress on the engine mounts is the reason why a failed transmission mount doesn't feel or sound like a localized vibration.
I should clarify that when you replace the mount you need to remove only the front portion of the fender liner on the driver's side.
Here are my notes about replacing the transmission mount. I had some problems with an over-sized poly mount that you'll probably avoid if you go with a rubber mount. Less vibration with rubber also. This procedure applies to the '94 and later model years.
PROCEDURE: (based partly on http://www.saabnet.com/tsn/bb/9000/index.html?bID=183912)
1. Jack up the front end of the car, support with jack stands, remove the left front wheel and the left front wheel liner (front half of the liner).
2. Loosen the mount bolt (16 mm bolt and 16 mm nut, with a specialized washer at each end and a standard washer against the head of the bolt). This bolt holds the mount in a bracket that is welded to the subframe.
3. Jack up the transmission (put a board between the jack and transmission to protect the transmission) until the mount clears the bracket. The bolt has to clear the bracket "cradle", which means jack it until the top of the automatic transmission is touching or nearly touching the battery tray. Now you can remove the mount bolt, nut and washers.
4. Remove 2 bolts holding a C-shaped bracket to free up the mount (identical 13 mm bolts with washers). This "C" bracket attaches the mount to the transmission housing. Now you can remove the "C" bracket and the old mount.
5. Discard the old mount if you bought a poly mount made by Professional Parts Sweden (part number 62345312PU). It is NOT designed to fit inside the old mount's metal collar.
6. To install the new mount you first attach the mount to the transmission with the "C" bracket and the two 13 mm bolts. Then you use the 16 mm bolt and nut to attach the mount to the bracket on the subframe. This is easier said than done because the new mount is oversized mostly due to the ring of poly around the perimeter of each half. If I had to do this again I would use a box cutter to slice this ring off. The mount presses so hard against the transmission housing that the mount is compressed, and this tension in turn makes it hard to install the 16 mm bolt. I had to lower the transmission to about its normal position in order to install the "C" bracket. Then I raised the transmission until it was just underneath the battery tray to install the bolt. I put the bolt in backward (head toward the driver's side tire and nut towards the engine. I put the bolt in loosely, then lowered the transmission to about its normal position. Then I added the nut and washers and tightened until snug.
7. Install the front wheel liner and driver's wheel, lower the car and then tighten the wheel bolts to 88 ft. lbs.
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