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Crank sensor test Posted by ELaw [Email] (#699) [Profile/Gallery] (more from ELaw) on Fri, 26 Jun 2015 13:32:13 In Reply to: Good ideas, JerseySaab [Profile/Gallery] , Fri, 26 Jun 2015 11:12:09 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
There are two ways I can think of to test the crank sensor... I'd probably do both once I got past the hard part of finding a way to connect to it!
It's got a 3-pin connector... somewhere! If you can find it, you want pins 1 and 2. I've got the Trionic service manual and it helpfully says the connector is H3-9 but unhelpfully doesn't say where it is. Or you can probe the ECU connector, pins 41 and 67. In either case, polarity doesn't matter.
Anyhow first test is resistance. I don't know the spec, but zero or infinity would be bad. I'd probably expect to see around 100 ohms, and would be concerned about anything below 40 or above 300. If you're trying to connect to the sensor's connector and don't know which pin is which, this may also tell you.
If the resistance test passes, switch your meter to AC volts and crank the engine. Again I don't know a specific spec, but would expect to see at least a volt when cranking. It might vary a bit with the engine's rotation but I would not expect it to vary a large amount. +/- 50% is probably okay, more would be cause for concern.
->Posting last edited on Fri, 26 Jun 2015 13:33:30.
_______________________________________ Eric Law Current collection: '12 Audi A4 quattro (self-tuned) '14 Audi A6 quattro (also self-tuned) Gone but not forgotten: '72 99, '77 99 (became a turbo, twice) '80 900T 5-door, '81 900T, '86 900S (became a turbo), '86 900 SPG '86 9000, '97 9000 Aero A bunch of Audis, '69 Firebird, '64 Toyota Corona (first car, cost $35 and worth every penny) Be alert... America needs more lerts!
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