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Tough main crank pulley: a few things Posted by John Fitzgerald [Email] (#77) [Profile/Gallery] (more from John Fitzgerald) on Mon, 28 Mar 2016 12:36:26 In Reply to: PULLEY STUCK - HOW TO REMOVE?, JerseySaab [Profile/Gallery] , Mon, 28 Mar 2016 11:00:28 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
I've done this many times on our older 9000's. Use an impact wrench to loosen the crank pulley bolt, then tap the perimeter of the harmonic pulley with a soft faced hammer. It'll slide right off.
The challenge is usually getting the oil pump cover retaining clip. Years ago, I bought the largest inside/outside snap ring / piston ring clip pliers from NAPA. Little adjustable bits with different angles can be inserted in the jaws, and the handle will lock closed.
When you get that killer snap ring out, depending on how hardened the oil pump seal is, the cover might be a little balky, too. Tap the perimeter w a screwdriver and a soft mallet, noting the alignment arrow for reinstallation- there's a little stud inside that needs to line up to slide the replacement assembly back in.
Some guys suggest seating the new front seal at a slightly different depth inside the housing ... There's a few mm worth of play for you to decide. It is important to lubricate all parts of the new seal and oil pump o-ring with motor oil before you reinstall. I press the seal in w a section of wooden dowel, just making sure it's even.
Getting the snap clip back in: another challenge. I usually start it out at one tab, then hold that segment in with a very small screwdriver while working the perimeter one the rest of the clip. Patience is a virtue, as is using another screwdriver to lever the clip into its groove all the way around.
Check the tensioner shock while you're in there, too. Either a rebuild, or a new shock at 60,000 mi is what I do. Keeping the tensioner shock steady and pulleys smooth minimizes plenty of vibration on the timing chain / balance shaft end of the engine. (Watch the tensioner shock handle the load of the AC compressor cycling ... Do this after you get the new pulleys and serpent belt on, but before putting the fende liner on. Just run the engine while still up on jack stands)
My wife's Aero, which we bought used at 20,000 mi, is pushing 291,000 mi with the original timing chain and balance shaft chain. It still runs smooth as silk, with zero chain noise. Original motor mounts were still ok at 250,000, when I replaced them preventatively. Regular serpent belt, pulley, and tensioner shock mx is what I give the credit to.
John
Burlington, Wisc
'73 96 RHD sold after four years in Middle Barton, Oxfordshire, UK
'80 99 sold after 20 years/192,000mi
'86 9kT sold after 12 years/approx 121,000 mi
'87 9kT sold after 9 years/approx 174,000 mi
'97 CSE given to my son after 8 years @ 245k; he sold it at 254k mi
still driving:
'95 Aero 136,xxx mi for my daughters to drive
'97 Aero 290,xxx mi wife's daily driver
'98 CSE 229,xxx mi for my daughters to drive
'08 9-5 2.3t 103,xxx my winter daily driver
and a couple of 'non-Saabs':
'01 Suburban 153,xxx mi
'03 BMW 330 Cic 70,xxx mi
->Posting last edited on Mon, 28 Mar 2016 12:43:23.
_______________________________________ John Burlington, Wisc '73 96 RHD sold after four years in Middle Barton, Oxfordshire, UK '80 99 bought new, sold after 20 years/192,000mi '86 9kT picked up at Trollhatten, sold after 12 years/approx 121,000 mi '87 9kT sold after 9 years/approx 174,000 mi '94 CSE given to my son after 8 years @ 245k; he sold it at 254k mi '95 Aero 146,xxx mi sold '98 CSE 248,xxx mi gave it away '97 Aero 317,xxx mi my daughter’s school car … gave away [we put 300k mi on it] still driving: '97 CSE 170xxx mi 'project car' for myself and my daughters to drive '07 9-3 2.0T 240xxx '08 9-5 191xxx mi my wife's daily driver and a couple of 'non-Saabs': '01 Suburban 201,xxx mi '03 BMW 330 Cic 84,xxx mi '14 Mercedes E350 103,xxx mi
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