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Trouble code troubles....long Posted by skibumm100 [Email]  (#3255) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from skibumm100) on Wed, 31 Aug 2016 05:10:12
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What a PITA. I fixed the leaking exhaust manifold gasket on my “new to me” 96 Aero 5-spd.
“Great, now I can get it inspected!”, I said.
“Not so fast”, said the Aero.
I couldn’t get the catalyst diagnostic to run to completion. I drove it around quite a bit and made several runs at the correct RPM, speed, etc. Still wouldn’t clear. I decided to drive it to the airport (50 mi, one way) and get it inspected when I get back home. I drive the car to BOS and it drives beautifully. I’m lovin’ life. I go on my trip and when I return and start the car at the parking lot, the “check engine” light is on. Crap! I pull the code the next morning, KOEO. P0133 – O2 sensor slow. Hmmm… I go to start the engine to watch the O2 signal on the laptop and it won’t start….battery is dead. Great. I throw the charger on the battery and charge it up. I start the car and it runs OK for a little while and then starts stumbling and doesn’t want to idle. I check the volts on the display and it’s all over the place…..14.2…..11.6…..not steady. The car would barely run. I take the battery load tester and check the battery…..fine with no load, weak when under load. Bad battery. I had a couple of issues recently with the battery going dead while sitting. I thought it was the hatch compartment light so I took out the bulb. Since the voltage was all over the place I figure it was a bad voltage regulator or worn out brushes in the alternator. It looks like the original Bosch 110A (176k on the odo). I still have my Duralast Gold alternator from my wrecked 97 Aero so I put that in the car. I took the Interstate 34R battery out of the 97 CSE and put it in the car. I installed new positive battery cable and cleaned all of the connections. I also put the Stage 1 ECU and T7 BPC valve in the car since I had to start from scratch on the ECU learning thing. I removed the DI cassette and changed the leaking cam cover gasket. I gapped the plugs while I had the DI off. The gaps were wide. While I had the alternator out it was a good time to change the upper motor mount and dogbone due to deteriorated or bunged up mounts. After it was all back together I took it out for a drive and it stalled on me a couple of times when rolling up to a red light with the clutch depressed. I drove it home and put the computer on it and it had one code stored and two pending. The stored code is P0507 – IAC RPM higher than expected. The pending codes are P0121 – TPS and P0340 – Camshaft Position Sensor.
BTW, Auto Zone tested the alternator and it checked out OK. Not surprising since it didn’t act up until it was warmed up and had been running for a bit. Advance Auto couldn’t figure out how to hook it up to test it. They said it was missing a W connector.
I haven’t tried a different DI yet. At least the voltage is consistent at 13.6-13.8 Volts coming out of the alternator. My multimeter actually reads a little higher at the battery terminals, 14.0-14.2V. I bought a new Advance Auto Silver group 41 battery for the 97 CSE since there was a sale and they had it in stock. I couldn’t find a group 34R battery anywhere except Optima Red Top’s or Odyssey and I didn’t want to drop that much on a car that I plan to sell soon. I’m thinking I might try a different DI cassette and re-check and reseat all the connections to make sure they’re good. I might take the Stage 1 ECU and T7 out and put the original ECU back in so I’m not changing too many things at once.
posted by 160.109.1...
_______________________________________ long-time listener, first-time caller Saab glutton for punishment
, Wed, 31 Aug 2016 05:10:12 <-- Viewing This Message
, Wed, 31 Aug 2016 20:02:44, Thu, 1 Sep 2016 05:47:45, Wed, 31 Aug 2016 07:18:40, Wed, 31 Aug 2016 10:17:07, Wed, 14 Sep 2016 14:17:51, Tue, 20 Sep 2016 04:42:39
, Wed, 14 Sep 2016 14:29:20, Wed, 14 Sep 2016 14:38:00, Wed, 31 Aug 2016 11:54:14
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