If all the gears could be engaged with tranny on the bench, then they should all engage when tranny is on engine. Until tranny lube has circulated to the reverse, input, and output shafts, shifting will be stiff. Alignment has to be done with car sitting on its 4 wheels and not on front jackstands. If the shift linkage arm pops off ball stud on tranny case, shift control will be poor. Have had success bench bleeding, leaving slave piston extended (by pressurizing it out with DOT4 fluid in syringe - not just pulling it out by throwout bearing). Then using two screwdrivers through inspection hole on tranny bell housing, pressed throwout bearing away from clutch fingers a little. This forces a little bubble up the pigtail tube, which is forced out by back bleeding using syringe attached to bleed nipple with a block of wood holding pedal raised. There have been reports here of damaged clutch friction discs causing clutch to drag as if the hydraulics were not working. I had one disc where hub and friction plate separated. Car would drive the wheels on jack stands, but only make swishing sounds on the ground with no car movement. Before installing the subframe etc, it's a good idea to put a C-clamp on right side intermediate shaft, leave tranny in a gear, insert driver axle, bleed clutch, hold pedal on the floor with wood, and see if tranny can be turned using driver axle. If locked with clutch pedal on floor, then either hydraulics or clutch disc needs to be looked at.
posted by 72.49.18...
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