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, Thu, 6 Feb 2014 17:15:19
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Never! And I'll avoid them at all costs. I've had better luck rebuilding my own but I've ;earned to replace my pads (and rotors) much earlier than recommended.
in my experience, once the pistons extends too far from the calliper, it is susceptible to corrosion as heat begins to dry out the brake fluid on it's exterior. As an extra precaution, I inject some brake fluid before the winter into the boot of each piston to ensure that it is well lubricated. I started to do this when the rebuilt callipers on my SPG would seize up every winter. Since doing so, I've never had an issue. I hope that I can continue to avoid rebuilds in the future.
As others have said, flushing brake fluid every couple of years privets further corrosion and wear inside the calliper. Well worth the effort.
To unfreeze the calliper, remove the pads and inject brake fluid into the boot until you can see the boot inflating. If you have an old set of thin pads or better yet, a brake piston compressing tool, install the thin pads, or the tool while it's retracted. Gently step on the brake pedal to extend the pistons. Then either compress them back into the calliper with the tool or with a screw driver wedged between the old pad and the rotor. With the screw driver, you'll have to do one side at a time and try to apply even pressure so as not to force the piston into the calliper on an angle. Once retracted, step on the brake pedal again...repeat a few times until you are convinced the pistons move freely. This has always worked for me but I do keep an eye on the trouble some calliper to ensure it doesn't seize up again. On my Viggen, the rears have been an issue in the past during the winter and the first 'tell-tale' was a blinking brake light when negotiating tight corners spiritedly. Low brake fluid indicated rapidly wearing pads from pistons that didn't return properly.
Good luck!
posted by 69.157.114...
, Thu, 6 Feb 2014 17:15:19, Fri, 7 Feb 2014 18:02:29
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