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Which strips first, bolt or thread (arm bolts or subframe)? Posted by SPG Jr [Email]  (#1830) [Profile/Gallery]
(more from SPG Jr) on Mon, 5 Dec 2016 16:17:48
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2000 Viggen
Been chasing suspension pops and knocks and, after installing poly bushings on both the stanchion and control arms, the bolts to subframe on the right side are turning way too easily so i'm concerned that something's stripped. I backed the torque wrench down to 60 ft lbs and the stanchion bolt is still isn't torqued. I didn't have enough clearance (working in driveway on jack stands) to get a torque wrench on the control arm bolt but that one seemed to strip tightening with just a 6" 3/8" socket wrench. Both seem to be holding but, before i take anything apart again, what's more likely to give way and strip, the bolt or the threads in the subframe? I'm betting subframe is weaker.
I had new bolts for each, but when i tried threading them without the arms in place they both felt like they were cross threading, so i opted to re-use the originals which weren't in bad shape. I should add that the original bolts didn't go as easily once I had to align them in the bushings, further lending to my concern.
I'm thinking of getting the car on a lift to keep the suspension loaded and swap out the bolts. but if the subframe threads are shot, worried I'm just making the situation worse. Any suggestions or experience appreciated, b/c i feel like i just ruined my subframe. (New bolts are 11100011 for stanchion and 7984933 for control arm).
(Sidenote-the Pro Parts poly stanchion bushings were really, really difficult to fit, especially working in a driveway, let alone get the bolt aligned. Do yourself a favor, buck up for the OEM stanchion arm. Love Dmitry's site, but there's always a lot to learn the hard way once you get into it.)
, Mon, 5 Dec 2016 16:17:48 <-- Viewing This Message
, Wed, 7 Dec 2016 11:28:02, Wed, 7 Dec 2016 11:20:07
, Mon, 5 Dec 2016 19:32:17, Mon, 5 Dec 2016 20:01:05, Tue, 6 Dec 2016 04:06:50, Tue, 6 Dec 2016 07:35:25
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