Date: 24 Sep 2001 04:45:58 GMT From: johnra1975nopsamcom (johnra1975) Subject: Re: Dash lights are always on - what is broken?
>I don't want to beat a dead thread, but you really need to chill. My pulse didn't even rise for a moment. >it has nothing to do with "knowing your machine" (And >to be perfectly honest I probably know my machine much better than you >since I have owned a 99, and 2 900s, rebuilt a Saab motor, swapped 3 >tranies and do all other mechanical work on the car myself I've owned seven SAABs over the past 11 years. Not once has one of them ever seen a mechanic other than myself. Two of them have had the engine and gearbox totally rebuilt by yours truley. As a consequence, my level of experience with these kids is prolly on par w/ you. >Be helpful, state your opinions, but do so in a way that doesn't >put others down. Quite frankly, I was not putting anybody down. One should know their hardware. I'm sorry you took it that way, but hey, that's a limitation of written language and is beyond my total control. The over,done,fixed, good reference, was not a suggestion that I felt that the thread was done just b/c I voiced my opinion. Again, a limitation of written language. Anyhow, the relatively quick fix is the following: Get a volt-ohm meter, and go hog wild. Take off the facia, and instument cluster. Check the printed circuit board as to which terminals of the wiring correspond with the the pc board lines running to the pot that dims the lights and those to the lamps. Turn the ignition on. Check the potential at these points. Is the lead to the pot or the lamps at ground? Make note of it. Clip and cap the wire with a potential higher than ground. Look at the light switch terminals. Make note of which lead is at 12V with the ignition swich on. With your volt-ohm meter, measure the resistance between the terminal that was at 12V and the others. When switching between the park and headlight position, you should notice a terminal whose resistance approaches zero. Tie into the wire that corresponds to that terminal and connect it to the lead to the pc board that had the higher potential initially. The additional current drawn through the light switch should not be enough to affect the operation of the headlamp relays, nor should it be enough to blow a fuse. One stupid physicist's solution. QED John Rausch johnranopsampot.phys.uwosh.edu 86 900S 87 900S 88 900 SPG 92 900 TC
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