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more things?
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Posted by JimBlake [Email] (#141) [Profile/Gallery] (more from JimBlake) on Thu, 5 Sep 2002 09:05:57 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: yes & no..., Marni, Thu, 5 Sep 2002 08:35:56
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There's a couple more switches & things, I only mentioned the low-pressure switch since you said it might be low on refrigerant... Here's what I can remember in no particular order.

1) Low-pressure switch - jumper it. If that makes the AC run, either your refrigerant is low, or the switch is bad. Have an AC shop measure the pressure before you just assume a bad switch.

2) High-temperature switch - middle of upper radiator hose, 2 wires to jumper together. It's supposed to shut off the AC if the engine is overheating. If that makes it run, either the switch is bad or your engine is way too hot.

3) Throttle-position switch - black switch on RH side of your throttle body. Opposite where the accelerator cable goes. Unplug it; the engine won't idle properly, so you might have to hold the gas to keep it from stalling. But if that causes your AC to start working, then the switch is messed up.

4) AC relay(s) - including the one controlling the fans. But you say you checked that. I don't have the wiring diagram here, so I don't know if the AC fan relay can keep the AC compressor from coming on.

5) Evaporator temperature switch - buried under the dash somewhere, with a temperature probe stuck in the evaporator. This is what tells the compressor to cycle on & off while you drive. I've never had to mess with it, so I don't know what else to say.

6) Maybe the switch in the dashboard is broken?

7) If nothing else works, use a voltmeter to check if the wire on the AC compressor is actually getting 12v. If it is, then the compressor clutch doesn't want to engage because its broke. If its not getting 12v, then either I've forgotten something (imagine!) or there's a busted wire somewhere between any of the above things.

If your lunch break is long enough to check all that, let us know what you find...


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