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Re: timing chain tensioner depression
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Posted by CMyles [Email] (#1126) [Profile/Gallery] (more from CMyles) on Sat, 15 Apr 2006 14:46:18 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: timing chain tensioner depression, SWEDECAR [Profile/Gallery] , Sat, 15 Apr 2006 09:17:49
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Allyson, As Swedecar said this is a very tricky operation. I'm not trying to scare you, just be advised that if you crank the engine with the valve timing off you may bend the valves (not the lifters) and that will prevent the car from starting or running and necessitate removing the head for valve replacement. There are three sprockets of course. One on each cam and one on the crankshaft, way down in the front cover. The cam sprockets are the same and the crank sprocket has exactly half as many teeth as a cam sprocket, so the cams rotate at half the speed of the crankshaft. The crank must be positioned so that cylinder #1 (that's the one closest to the windshield) is at "top dead center" while you set the cam to chain relationship. So if you look at Swedecar's photo, that is where the cams should be with the flywheel(flexplate since you have an automatic) indicating TDC (and with the tensioner installed and all chain slack pressed out on the correct side).
Once you think that the cam (valve) timing is correct (and the tensioner is installed) you should confirm that by rolling the engine 2 full revolutions (that's crankshaft revolutions), back to TDC and seeing the marks come back up in the correct place. (Do it more than once too). Be sure to roll the engine counter-clockwise as veiwed from the front end of the car. That's so any slack in the chain is taken up properly. As you arrange the chain on the sprockets and proceed to get them "timed" be careful not to roll the engine by using a wrench on the cam shaft. It's OK to move a cam shaft very slightly that way to facilitate laying the chain on the right tooth but if you turn the entire engine that way you can shear the key from the cam sprocket with disasterous results.
Don't forget to torque the bolts which hold the cam sprockets onto the cams. I use a little medium strength "Loc-tite" on them myself. If you have dropped the chain down in the front cover while the cam sprockets were off you may have to gently roll the crankshaft a tiny bit to and fro while lifting on the chain to get it all back up. Rolling an engine by hand with an automatic transmission is a little trickier too. Pull the plastic shroud off the torque convertor housing and find a way to grab the torque convertor or flexplate. Avoid the urge to roll the engine with the starter motor. You need to be able to "feel" if you are contacting resistance. Don't crank the starter until you are sure that the valve timing is right. It is very common for people to set up the ignition timing 180 degrees out which prevents the engine from starting so try to avoid that pitfall. There are a lot of old posts on this board which would help you.
By the way, following an oil change it is often not unusual to hear a little lifter clicking as the fresh oil finds its' way through the system, especially if it's not quite full. Always be sure that the engine is full of oil and give it a few minutes to circulate and warm up before you decide that a lifter is collapsed and requires replacing. Sticky lifters can often be tickled back into working order with judicious use of special engine lubricants and it's much less work than changing lifters (as you see) so usually worth a try.
Good luck.

posted by 206.123.221...
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