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Harmonic Balancer replacement
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Posted by Ari [Email] (#2847) [Profile/Gallery] (more from Ari) on Mon, 10 Mar 2003 08:12:47 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Ari: Bahda Bing Bahda Boom - Thank you, AeroJT, Sun, 9 Mar 2003 23:10:29
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To be absolutely sure it's the Harmonic Balancer - take a piece of chalk and draw a line across the face of the pulley. Yes, it's a reach. Start the car a few times, making sure it squeals at least once. Look at the face of the pulley and see if the chalk line is straight or 'broken'. An inspection mirror will help. If the line is 'broken', then the inner and outer sections have slipped, and you know you need a new pulley. Is the line still straight? Look around for something else.


Check around for posts on replacing the Harmonic Balancer. It definately is a DIY job, but it's also not trivial. Check the Townsend Site (http://www.townsendimports.com) for ideas - specifically, look under the 900 section for replacing the main seal. Yes, it's a 900, but it gives very good pointers. And it's easier in the 9000.

The very first thing I do is start the car, then remove the fuel pump fuse. The engine will cough and die. There is a very good reason for this. Leave the fuel pump fuse out. I then remove the DI cassette connector. The car will definately not start now.

Basically, you'll jack up and support the RH front and remove the wheel. Next, remove the plastic fender inner-liner (2 pieces) - this isn't hard, but it does involve about 20+ screws. This gives full access to the belt end of the engine.

You'll next remove the serpentine belt. Since you've got an automatic tensioner, you'll need to compress and hold it while removing the belt. Do yourself a favor and make a drawing of the belt path before removing the belt. Look for posts on Replacing the Serpentine Belt.

Loosening the main bolt on the pulley can be interesting. I like using the Townsend trick of the starter. I just put a socket with a breaker bar on the pulley, with the breaker bar hanging down, just forward of the suspension A-arm. A very quick turn of the key, and BAM!, the breaker bar will hit the A-arm. Get out and make sure the socket still engages the bolt head. It may take a dozen times,but this will loosen the bolt without having to apply a million foot-pounds of torque. Now you know why you dropped the fuel pressure and killed the ignition.

The pulley just pulls off, and you can put on a new one.

Of course, while you're in there, if the serpentine belt is more than 3 years old, you might as well replace it. Check the main seal for leaking - now's the time to replace it, and if you do, you might as well pull the oil pump off and replace the O-ring behind it. Inspect the engine mounts for wear - if they've failed, replace them. Has the alternator been acting up? It's easier to replace a voltage regulator now that when the car is buttoned up. And is there any signs of dripping from the water pump weep hole? That's a sign you need to replace the pump.

Replacing the pulley isn't hard - maybe a couple of hours work. But since you've got access to that end of the engine, it's a perfect opportunity to get other things done. The last time I did a main seal, I ended up with new motor mounts and an alternator.

posted by 192.249....
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