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Changed wheel bearings today on '99 9-3 some tips
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Posted by NHWayne [Email] (more from NHWayne) on Sat, 21 Feb 2009 08:15:21 Share Post by Email
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First, thank you Anders for the tips.

A little background. Had the typical woo-woo-woo noise, though mine was constant.

Decided to use a Hub Tamer set. Anders was right - the horseshoe attachment that is used to push the hub out of the bearing is NOT strong enough and flexes, such that the screw unit starts skewing. You have to screw, hammer, screw, hammer, etc.

Mine started skewing so much, I decided to just pull the whole strut assembly and use my press (20 ton, in case you're wondering - though I understand a 12 ton suffices). I'm not sure if it's just the age (it's the original bearing with 160K +), or if Saabs just have a tighter hub fit or something.

So here's a few tips from my bearing swap:

1. You CAN get a ball joint separator onto the lower joint. Turn the wheel all the way in the direction of whatever side you're doing - left for the left wheel in my case. Once that's done, you can push the axle in far enough that there will be enough clearance between the axle and the joint to easily get the separator in there. I used a KD Tools KD3916. It might be a little thinner than some, so YMMV.

2. Instead of struggling with a breaker bar, my "Earthquake" impact wrench (625 ft lbs.) easily got the axle nut off).

3. When I originally ordered my all my parts from Eeuro, I ordered new nuts for the upper and lower ball joints - ended up getting the factory ones from the stealer - the OEM ones seemed to be hardened - the ones from Eeuro did not (the suspension takes a lot of grief, so I didn't want to chance it).

4. If it can be rusted together, it will be. Rotor to hub, circlips in slot, etc., etc., etc. The circlips were so fused into the slots, I used a MAPP torch to heat them up a little, along with some Kroil (better than PB) to get them to come out. Rotor took some banging to get off the hub (as others have experienced)

5. I know a lot of people strip the head of the alignment screw that aligns the rotor with the hub properly. Here's my best tip. I have this thing called a SCREW KNOCKER. If you don't know what that is, Google it and get one. It's usually used by airplane mechanics to get rusted bolts and nuts loose. It attaches to your air hammer and has a standard 3/8" socket head so you can attach sockets, or as in this case, hex head sockets. The hammer provides massive vibration while a handle allows you to turn the knocker - less than 3 seconds, and it was off, no stripping, and no damage.




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