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Re: Rear Main Seal repl, what else should I have done?
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Posted by Dean (more from Dean) on Mon, 20 Jan 2003 13:39:53 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Rear Main Seal repl, what else should I have done?, RickNelson, Mon, 20 Jan 2003 12:05:44
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Your miles are real low. But the clutch may have seen a lot of city driving so it might need replacement.

The clutch kit contains a new throwout bearing. The trany has 4 seals, one is for the clutch fork. The clutch fork might need renewing too. With the new seals in the trany, the trany can get changed over to the Saab synthetic gear oil. The flywheel might need to be machined. Mine was ok at 108000 miles, mostly highway. Might as well get a fresh start with a new clutch cable too.

BTW, when the rear seal is replaced, the engine oil does not leak out, so a drain and fill is not neccessary at that time.

The exhaust system will be partly lowered. If your flex pipe assy is original, it might be getting brittle. It might start getting noisy after the tranywork and that could take a couple of months to develop perhaps. Not really something that you can do anything about.

If you still have the orginal design hard bolted cat converter support at the back of the engine, this should be replaced with the rubber hanger type. All of the original design will fail, and yours could be cracked aready. The original cracks from stresses that are created when the downpipe heats up. Better that hanger cracks than the turbo or exhaust studs in the head.

The LH driveshaft will come out. That spills the trany fluid. The RH shaft stays bolted into the RH hub. The LH strut does not have to come out. The LH control arms are probably in the way and I expect that they come out.

You might want to confirm that your water pump is the revised one, and not of the early production where the pully to shaft weld fails and the pully falls back (not off) and drops the belt. These were cleaned up with a service campaign in the spring of 1998. The ones updated in the field had the welds slashed with some brightly colored paint. I think it was green, can't recall exactly. Mine failed at just over 80000 miles and I beat the campaign by a few months. This should be in the service history of the vehicle if it was replaced. At this point a records check or a simple inpection might be good.

The coolant is not drained if the work proceeds as with my 95SET.

Have you ever gone around the engine bay and re-tighened up the hose clamps for the coolant system? Most are accessable from above and you can do these yourself. But the two heater hose connections at the firewall need be accessed from under the vehicle. So I would ask that they do these while at the trany work. If the clamps are not re-tighened at some point since new, or more than once as well over the years, leaks are almost guarateed.

If you are not a DIY type and you are running the original belt and pullies, an inspection and possible renewals might be a good idea. The ravages of time can sometimes overule low miles.

I know the pain of having the expense of such major work for an inexpensive oil seal. The replacement seal is a different beast and so you will not be installing another low life seal.

I had the VRK installed at the same time and had the turbo compressor discharge silencer removed as well. My wife often reminds me about the bill for all of that ;}

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