2003-2011 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
There are a couple of methods. If you undo the 8mm headed screws that hold the bumper skin to the wheel well liner and air dam and remove the six plastic pins that hold the bumper skin at the top of the grill (they will break, but are not important), you can peel the bumper skin away from the car enough to remove the headlight assembly with a 10mm socket.
Once it is away from the car you twist the square igniter module so that it unplugs itself from it's power cable and then remove it. Once the transformer is removed, the bulb is just held in with a clip.
DANGER Will Robinson! Make sure the ignition is off. 23,000 volts.
If you like you can do it in situ by removing the washer fluid filler neck. It just pulls off and pushes back on. No matter how much trouble it is, put the black rubber cover back when you are done. It's important to keep water out of the assembly.
But wait, there's more. Often the bulb colors don't match. One will be bluer or whiter than the other when you are done. Even worse are the ones that bulb replacement won't fix. Twice now I have replaced bulbs only to find that the module on the bottom of the assembly is fried.
To sum it all up, I would remove the entire assembly and then remove the module from the bottom of the assembly to inspect for signs of corrosion (light green mineral deposits) before I bought a really expensive bulb. Another possibly simpler test would be to swap the bulbs in situ before purchasing a bulb. That way you will be sure it is the bulb and not the module. You can peel the whole bumper skin off in a few minutes with an 8mm socket, then swap parts back and forth to pinpoint the problem.
I would not spend my time typing this if I had not been forked a few times by these things. I really don't mean to put you off. It may just be a bulb, but I have wasted a few hours of my life chasing these things.
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