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Vac Leaks
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Posted by DrewP [Email] (more from DrewP) on Mon, 1 Mar 2010 13:48:53 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: 2003 9-3 Idling rough, NBH, Sat, 27 Feb 2010 10:28:23
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Look very carefully for vacuum leaks. Remove the black plastic engine top cover, with the three Torx screws. Look carefully at the vacuum lines that run underneath the inlet manifold.

There is one that runs from back by the turbo, around the passenger side of the cylinder head, and into a black plastic moulded hose with check valve integrated into it. Where that little valve goes up into the inlet manifold is where they usually start to crack. Look for the little 90* degree rubber elbow where the line enters the manifold.

The other common place they break is where that line runs towards the driver's side of the engine under the inlet manifold, and transitions into the black nylon tube over by the brake booster vacuum pump. There is a junction on top of the pump, and leads to the brake booster.

If you don't see any torn hoses (around boost pressure control valve, by-pass valve, all the PCV lines) then check that the clamps on all the turbo intake hoses (the big ones) are tight, none of the rubber is torn or split, and pull the large elbow off where the intake goes into the throttle body. Look around the edge of the throttle body where it seals, if it looks really dirty, gently wipe away any dirt, and try to wash the area clean with some brake cleaner or similar to get the gunk out. If the throttle body is dirty, sometimes it can stick or register the wrong flow so the engine runs weirdly.

If you get a check engine light after re-starting after cleaning the throttle body, let the car idle for a few mins, rev the engine a little, shut the car down, let it sit for several minutes for all the computer modules to go to sleep properly, and disconnect the battery for a few mins to clear the codes, re-connect and see if has gone away.

Then, report back.

It's usually a vacuum hose leaking or broken though.

Best,
Drew

posted by 76.79.178...

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