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Re: Manual Boost Control Kick at High Boost --why?
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Posted by Dean (more from Dean) on Wed, 20 Oct 2004 12:27:47 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Re: Manual Boost Control Kick at High Boost --why?, Alexander Reid, Wed, 20 Oct 2004 10:20:22
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It is simple, as stated, the ECU cuts the injectors out when the pressure exceeds the ecu's preset limits.

A manual boost controller will have pressure overshoots and you must then reduce the setting to get the peak pressure overshoots under that limit. When it gets colder, this gets worse. The only solution is a MBC+A.

If the boost is set so high that you get runaway wheel spin in 2nd gear, you cannot live with that and your are crippled. You need to be able to do WOT 2nd gear runs. And the boost to do that is controlled by tire traction; so you need high traction tires. And if you are on the edge, for a given boost pressure, torque will still go up in cold weather as the tires get less sticky. So extemes of boost may be hard to live with. One alternative that might be easier to live with is a SMBC. This will allow for lower boost in the lower gears and you can adjust that lower level. You then get the ECU and BPC back in the knock protection game. Stacking a MBC/MBC+A and a modified ECU is getting out on the bleeding edge, so don't get cut.

Are you used Abbott's MBC? It is, or was, a simple bleeder type... not really what one wants for high performance as it increases boost lag. A ball-spring type is what is needed for a MBC or SMBC setup. A SMBC needs a properly functioning BPC valve.

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