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Re: Help.. replaced rotor/pads.. now the brake is mushy
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Posted by Dean [Email] (more from Dean) on Sun, 8 Jan 2006 09:04:16 Share Post by Email
In Reply to: Help.. replaced rotor/pads.. now the brake is mushy !, Wagon Man, Fri, 6 Jan 2006 21:36:08
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I agree, no need to flush brakes to get proper action, but should be done as part of PM at some time.

Could be the hold down springs, but that is easy to check out in a few seconds. What you need to consider is that the pad surfaces are torn up from machining in the factory. This loose surface is soft. With heat/pressure and initial wear this surface will compact and the feel will change. Some accelerated bedding in can be accomplished with some repeated aggressive stops to heat things up and deliver pressure to the pad faces.

When pads are renewed on old rotors, the bedding in also needs to get the pad to conform to the non-flat rotor face and grooves. That takes a little longer to happen.

When advancing the caliper piston after brake work and during bleeding, never push the petal to the floor. This longer stroke takes the soft MC cup seals over parts of the cylinder not travelled... which can have rust deposits that cut the seals and lead to MC failure. Put a block of wood (2x4) behind the petal to limit travel during this work. Bleeding removes damp fluid that causes this rust. You should extract the fluid at the MC then fill with new prior to bleeding to avoid pushing wet fluid through the whole system. One should R&R the fluid at the MC once per year to help keep the fluid dry and do full system bleeds according to the maintenance schedule.

Did you seat the rotor index screws with neverseize and tighten very lightly? Put neversieze on the hub to rotor diameter and on the hub where the wheel fits?

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