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Observation/question on lower/center serp belt idler Posted by TonyJ [Email] (#407) [Profile/Gallery] (more from TonyJ) on Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:39:52 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Replacing the intermediate shaft necessitates removing the alternator because it is mounted on the same bracket, and the serp belt tensioner. So I decided to replace it and all 3 idlers while I had things apart. NOW I KNOW WHY THEY OFFER A SHORTER BELT THAT SKIPS THE LOWER/CENTER IDLER PULLEY! There is very little room between the bolt head and the spring tower and no access hole. There is also very little lateral compliance in the engine mounts, so you can't gain much by prying the engine to the left. IMHO, incredibly poor maintainabilty design! I expected better from Saab. After more than an hour of various schemes, what finally worked was the following:
1. Put the inner washer on the shaft
2. Tape the outer washer to the plastic idler and put them on the shaft.
3. Cut a 2.5" x 3/4" strip of thin aluminum (e.g. roofing flashing)
4. Using double-sided foam tape (e.g. 3M), stick one end of the strip to the head of the bolt.
5. Bend the strip so the bolt is at a 45 degree angle.
6. Using both hands alternately from the top, holding the idler in place, jockey the bolt into position, gradually bending the strip straight while turning it to get threads engaged.
7. Once the bolt is engaged, stop and have a beer---you are home free!
8. Using a thin 13mm or 1/2" open end, turn the bolt until it is in far enough to fit a ratcheting box wrench (e.g. GearWrench), then turn it snug.
9. Use a 1/2" torque wrench in the open end of the gear wrench, correcting for geometry, torque it. Not finding any spec in Haynes or WIS, I used the 8mm default torque of 15 lbf-ft.
10. Does anyone have any easier method?
Counterpoint: there are a couple of improvements over the 9000:
a) No left hand threads
b) You can replace the belt without removing any idlers
c) Much easier method to unload the tensioner
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