1999-2009 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
[Main 95 Bulletin Board | BBFAQ |
Prev by Date | Next by Date | Post Followup ]
Member Login / Signup - Members see fewer ads. - Latest Member Gallery Photos
Observation/lessons on wheel bearing replacement, 2004 Posted by TonyJ [Email] (#407) [Profile/Gallery] (more from TonyJ) on Sun, 18 Oct 2009 08:46:08 Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup |
Aero Wagon. As should be evident from my recent posts, I replaced the intermediate shaft bearing, but that wasn't the whole problem. The RF wheel bearing was also noisy and I just replaced it at only 66K miles. Now it's back to just the normal tire whine from the 25K Nokian g2 WRs.
While much easier than the intermediate shaft bearing, the job is harder than it could be. Unlike the 9000, it is necessary to disconnect both the tie rod end and ball joint because you can't get at the 3 E18 bolt heads with the CV joint in the way. Unless you have an assistant who is good at wrestling, it is also helpful to disconnect one end of the sway bar link.
Besides generous use of PB Blaster, getting the hub assembly out can be done by using a lug bolt (or other 12x1.5mm bolt) together with a small, tough steel object (I used a 7mm socket) as a jack against the hub carrier. This same idea, minus the small object, is useful during assembly to keep everything from turning while you tighten the 32mm wheel nut; but not for final torqueing which needs someone to hold the brake or the "through the wheel" method. This is the only advantage of lug bolts vs. studs that comes to mind. There's not even a locating pin any more like on the 9000.
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.