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Re: tips for swaybar endlink replacement? (long)
Posted by Bob from Maine [Email] (more from Bob from Maine) on Fri, 30 Jul 2010 18:15:17
In Reply to: Re: tips for swaybar endlink replacement? (long), Boomer, Fri, 30 Jul 2010 17:19:15
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I just did Mine two weekends ago when I did front brakes. Boomer's got it right, both wheels off the ground is a must for no preload at all, they pop right off, after a bit of struggling that is.. I didn't have my c0mpressor/air tools nearby which would have made this much easier.. I did the first side backwards, I think anyway I removed the top first which made removing the bottom bolt a bit more difficult as it the bar was floating all over the place after removed from top, bur easy to connect the top back in to make the bottom removal easier. I got to the bottom nut cracked using 3/8" drive shallow socket (can't remember MM, 15 maybe?)and a either a 4" or 6" wobble end extension pivoted to the front of the car rubbing against the strut.. on other end had a 3/8" to 1/2" socket adapter and I think my 20" 1/2" breaker bar... with the right angle and with wrench on the flats hitting something solid, you should be able get a good yank to crack it.. I recall using a 17mm open end wrench though for the flats to stop stud end from spinning not 18mm?.. I read some had to grind their wrench thinner to get between the link and mounting plate, my 25 year old snap-on wrench was thin enough and slid right.. once cracked swapped to shorter 3/8" socket wrenck to get er out slick.. I did both sides with the rotors out which I think made it much easier..
PS.. blast the rusty ones with PB Blaster and let em soak, one side of mine was real rusted and other wasn't?
good luck!
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