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One of, if not all of, the mods involving the relay and jumping pins will place all of the current for operating the halogens on the thin wire that runs through the stalk switch.
A much better mod is one that Steve Goldberger uses, which modifies the wiring at the headlamp side, which is well able to handle the necessary current to drive a 55watt H7 continuously (I find it hard to believe that, in a car where you can control so much via software, that Saab saw fit to completely change the HID headlamp wiring for the US market).
If the vast majority of your driving is in the city, or developed suburbia, you really don't need the halogen high beams all that often.
If you think the high beams in a city/suburbia environment are dim, the first thing to do is get new, quality, brand name (like Osram, Philips, Sylvania, etc.) HID capsules in the proper color (4300 deg. K, IIRC. AVOID anything 5000 deg. K and up like the plague). HID capsules degrade over time, largely from depositing the salts on the inside of the arc envelope, making them opaque white.
If you're in the country, or drive there often, then enabling the H7s as standard high beams is useful, in addition to getting new HID capsules about every 2-3 years. But I'd recommend the method Steve used over anything around the relay.
Steve's method
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