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Re: Dogleg cavity wax Posted by Dave The Ice Age Knave [Email] ![]() ![]() ![]() In Reply to: Dogleg cavity wax, Davecl ![]() |
The best thing to do, which i have not done since I am lazy is remove the inner rear wheel well liner. You will probably need to spray penetrant to loosen the screw caps over a couple of weeks first so you minimize failure of threaded studs. Buy extra threaded caps or other fasteners in advance so you have them to put it back on. Past that, scrupulously and gently clean the inner side of the dog leg of dirt and contaminants. If you see any very small areas of rust, you can gently scrape only the rusted spot to remove loose rust and when very clean and degreased, apply a couple of coats of crazy glue to seal the perforation or rusty area. Cover the area with a liberal coating of waxy rust inhibitor or lithium grease or well reviewed alternative and button it back up again. The crazy glue can also be used for small rust bubbles on the outside of the dog leg. Then primed with a q tip with high zinc paint and then repainted DIY with a artists brush or spray can matching paint and clearcoat according to your standards. I heard it works and i tried it on my wifes Escape Hybrid before winter and its held up way better than a putty and paint approach. Not a permanent multi-year solution in the saltbelt for a workhorse but could be in milder or warm climates. I have used inhibitors for years and they work, some better than others. If you are in Canada I can give you some brand names but if you are in the USA/UK/EU than I can't help you because products can differ a lot. Typically for a car here, you need a thinner product for penetration and a thicker product for high wash areas. They have to be none drying and repel and displaced moisture when applied.
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