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drs<underscore>install
I received my Euro spec driver's side aspherical split field mirror Friday, installed yesterday. I have not really had a good chance to eval, however my wife is very impressed with it. I will eval in rush hour traffic Monday AM.
This mirror and the non auto-dimming mirrors are very similar, the auto-dimming units have one more electrical connector.
The motorized base inside the mirror has a circular ring that fits into a socket in the mirror. The mirror has a circular stainless steel wire spring that cuts in slits in the mirror's socket wall. The base part that goes into the socket has a conical leading edge taper and a sharpish back edge. So the mirror is pushed onto the concical ring and the wire spring snaps behind the conical ring to hold it on. The ring detail is 2 maybe 2.5" in diameter.
You remove the old mirror, transfer the wire spring to the new one and push it firmly and squarely in till its secured.
The mirrors heater circuit has two miniature spade connectors. The wires have female connectors attached. These are quite tight. I pried these off with a blade to catch the end edge of the connector. Have a look where the different color coded wires go. However it does not appear to be critical which is which and there are no polarity markings on the mirror backing plate that I could see.
The dimmer circuit has a connector body that is captured by retaining clips in the mirror backing plate. Pry this out then unplug the mirror from the end of the connector body. It is a minature weather tight affair, nicely made.
So thats the wiring. When you get the mirror mechanically free, you have to deal with these connectors and there is not much mirror slack. So have some small tools handy to remove the connectors.
Some have simply pulled the mirror from the top and got it to release. I made a wire hook and caught a loop of the spring and pulled it out, from the top, and got things started that way. You will need a thin but strong steel wire. If you have kept some stainless steel spline strips from old wiper blades around, these are thin and very strong. The flat shape should allow for a comfortable curved loop that will not cut your finger.
Alternatively, the wire spring end with two straight sections that point inboard. With the window down and the mirror tilted outward then tugged on, these are very visable, but a bit inaccessable. If you move these inwards to toward the mirror and to center and then back away from the mirror, you can unhook these. A good analogy is how the lamps are released in the head lamps with a wire retainer. A thin metal tube might work nicely. It is like unbuilding a ship in a bottle. So see what you can come up with if you are so inclinded. If you can do this you will eliminate high mechanical stresses and the risk of overloading anything.
I was surprised after doing all of this that the system still knew where the mirror was after all of this. I hit the seat memory button and the mirror went where it was meant to be, but I will have to find an different position for this mirror and put that in memory.
source: http://www.genuinesaab.com
03 Aero S/W 15K
posted by 65.68.100...
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