1999-2009 [Subscribe to Daily Digest] |
Members do not see ads below this line. - Help Keep This Site Online - Signup
Search keyword: drs_install [all references should be drs<underscore>install to avoid searches finding all references]
Degree of difficulty: two beers (more will require a p-break :)
Applies in general to the NG900 and its 9-3 cousins. Fasteners will be different. Other 9-5s may be similar, though some ?had capiper parking brakes?
Problem: 40K, have heard some rubbing sounds, setting the p-brake causes a bang sound
Climate: Kansas with anual winter trips to Canada
Solution: lubricate the p-brake
Observations: no lube from factory, not rust evident in this case
I hate these p-brakes, I have had these on Volvos and Opels and I hope the design goes away! I have been doing this since the 70's!
If you hear or feel that the p-brake is dragging, it needs some preventative maintenance. These things are built 'dry' at the factory and can hang up. If they hang up the p-brake handle may 'need adjustment'. Only adjusting this is just putting a noose around your neck. The p-brake shoes, very costly, will continue to wear. You need to lubricate things and get them working right. And if needed, adjust them while doing the lube work.
If the p-brake is working right, there is never any wear. So if they need adjustment, you have got to fix things.
Never just adjust!
The first side took me 1:20 and the second 1:00. I was not in a hurry, lots of time when one is laid off.
When you replace the rotors, thats a good time to lubricate.
Tools:
#30 torx driver or bit (prefered) for indexing screw
18mm socket
torque wrench ----------- 81 ft.lb for the caliper bolts
breaker bar
standard 1/2 rachet
water pump wrench AKA channel lock
a selection of larger flat blade screwdrivers
Supplies:
neversieze
rust paint - if hub end cover rusting
oil
shop towels, 5 or 6
paint thinners
coat hanger wire and something to cut it
Do one side at a time to avoid overflowing of the brake reservoir.
- Jack up to take some weight off the tire, but not off the ground.
- And chock a tire on the other side of the vehicle - important, you will have the hydraulic AND p-brake disabled! If it starts to roll, you will NOT be able to stop - no brakes!
- Loosen the wheel bolts slightly
- Lift wheel - tire clear of ground
- Remove wheel bolts and put wheel aside
- Remove the index screw. On my 03 Aero its a #30 Torx. The Torx socket is shallow and the tip of the driver in the trunk and most bits are slightly rounded. So there is a risk of rounding out the screw's socket. I prefer a bit and I drive it in first. I had previously removed mine and reseated it with lots of neverseize and tightened very slightly. There is no reason at all to make these tight! If you can't get the screw out - end of project. (remove these when vehicle is new and reseat as below)
- Use the channel locks or screw drivers to push the caliper piston in, by working against the pad, quite a ways in will be needed to remove the caliper (the pads stay loaded in the caliper
- Remove the two caliper bolts
- Bend some coat hanger wire into a hanger about 8" and hang the caliper on from the top coil of the spring - the caliper is on a short hose, not a hard pipe like the NG900 and 9-3
- If the p-brake is set, release it now then remove the rotor, a dead blow hammer can be handy
- At this point you could have a new rotor to install on hand, but you would still have pad removal to contend with
- Turn the hub so that two of its larger holes are at 10 and 2 o'clock
- Put large screw drivers in those two holes and lever the brake shoes apart, grasp both screw drivers with one hand and with the the other, lift out the slack adjuster WITHOUT changing its adjustment. Note what end the star wheel goes to, but I don't know that that matters
- Push the shoes towards each other at the top and remove the spring
The brake shoes are cast iron it appears, a huge improvement over the stamped steel shoes. And the edges of the shoes ride on machined projections from the back, instead of on rased bosses on the steel backing plate of earlier designs. The hold down springs clamp the shoe edges back against those machined projections. We need to put some neversieze on those surfaces and not get any on the shoe's friction faces.
I removed the hold down springs on one side. This was very difficult to put back on, so lets leave those connected.
- Move the shoes out to the the side to expose the complicated lever arrangement at the bottom. Work some neversieze in there and exercise it a bit to work it in. I put a small couple of drips of oil in there as well. I was able to remove the lower spring, but its difficult to remove and replace. I had it off on one side only. There are two pivots in there. A job for good light to see better.
- With a screw driver, pry the shoes out to expose the edge contact projection surfaces, and put a little neverseize there. Reposition the screwdriver for each. A brush might be to big to avoid the friction face, so perhaps a tooth pick would be better.
Do the above two steps in that order to avoid spreading the grease from the first step around while doing the rest
- Postion the shoes properly on the back supporting projections if they are not there already
- Push the shoes towards each other, and put the spring back
- Force the shoes apart again with the screw drivers and put the slack adjuster back without changing its adjustment
- Clean up the hub's face and diameters for the rotor and wheel
- Put some neversieze on the diameters and a with some on a cloth, a light trace on the hub face (rust deterent)
- Clean the rotor free of loose brake dust and its hub diameter, 45 degree and hub contact face as required
- Put the rotor on the hub and put the index screw back with neverseize, tightened ever so little
- Remove the caliper from the hanger and put in place
- Fit the caliper bolts with neversieze on the threads and under the bolt head. This will prevent water intrusion and rust. (The ends of the threads are exposed and can rust badly over the years.)
- Torque to 81 ft.lbs
Now deal with the p-brake cable. Mine had the steel cable in a clear cover. It goes into a rubber seal nipple.
- Wipe the expose cable free of dirt.
- Remove the nipple from the cable jacket and slide it back rotating to get the grease out of it
- Wipe off the contaminated grease and repeat a couple of times.
- I have a tube of white lithium grease, which you should use, and with the tube I pushed some into the nipple and pushed it back in place on the cable assembly - then wipe away any grease that extruded
One side had the steel cover at the end face of the hub rusting. I scraped, cleaned with solvent and painted that with a 'rust' paint.
- Put some neversieze on the hub diameter, getting the rotor-hub gap as well to prevent water intrusion and rust
- Put some neversieze on a cloth and put a -slight- film on the rotors face as a rust preventative
- Clean the wheels hub bore and fit on the hub and bolt it up
- Tighen the wheel bolts a bit, lower the jack to get some tire contact and torque them
- Set the p-brake and pump the brake petal to advance the caliper piston, using many short strokes only, do not push the petal to the floor!
- Remove the jack and the wheel chock
Do the other side.
posted by 66.142.222...
No Site Registration is Required to Post - Site Membership is optional (Member Features List), but helps to keep the site online
for all Saabers. If the site helps you, please consider helping the site by becoming a member.
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
